No spark, no fuel, no sanity left...

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  • KnasH
    Noobie
    • Jul 2011
    • 6

    #1

    No spark, no fuel, no sanity left...

    I've been a lurker on r3v for a while, and now it is my turn to kneel at the alter and seek the wisdom of the collective.

    2 Months ago, I bought a complete 1987 325is automatic as a non-running parts car. The main reason I bought the car was swap the basket weaves with my bottle caps, but I also got a really good deal on the car and took it on as a personal challenge to get this thing running. I have had no luck so far, and so my question is thus: why the #%$% won't my car run?

    Now, the background info:

    When I bought the car, the owner told me that he had replaced the following within the last 3 years:
    - Ignition coil
    - Battery
    - mass air sensor (used)
    - Spark plugs

    When I got the car home, the first thing I did was charge up the battery, pull a spark plug, and check for spark. No spark. Also, no fuel pump noise. However, all the normal lights came on and the started motor was turning and sounded solid.

    Next, I opened the trusty Bentley manual and went through every item in the "no spark" trouble shooting guide. The takeaways:

    - The ignition coil in the car was for a 318i, not a 325i. Luckily, the prev-owner gave me the old ignition coil, which I tested in my '89 325i daily driver, and it worked fine. Threw the "old" functional coil back in the '87. Still nothing.
    - Pulled ECU and tested it in my daily driver. Worked just fine.
    - Performed the check out procedure on every other part of the system, and everything checked out good.
    - At this point, I also performed the check-out on the ignition switch. Checked out fine.

    However, at this point, I noticed that when I turned the key in the ignition, neither the main relay nor the fuel pump relay were clicking on! Swapped the relays into the daily driver, and they worked fine. Next part is fuzzy (was a while ago), but I believe what I did was jump the main relay with two wires and then was able to get spark. This was the only time I have gotten spark.

    After I got spark, I dug into the harness and found that the green wire on the main relay plug (leads to the ECU) had been repaired and the repair looked horrendous. Tons of corrosion and was barely holding together. I fixed the wire properly, and now the relays are clicking on consistently. However, I'm STILL not getting any spark, and the fuel pump isn't coming on!

    AGH!

    This is where I'm at now, and I'm stymied. Any advice on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. I tried to be detailed, but I'm sure I left details out. Let me know if you need any more info! Thanks!
  • acolella76
    R3VLimited
    • Apr 2010
    • 2950

    #2
    Cps
    -Alex

    Comment

    • KnasH
      Noobie
      • Jul 2011
      • 6

      #3
      I did the check-out procedure for the CPS as described in the bentley, and it checked out fine.

      Comment

      • Sagaris
        R3VLimited
        • Sep 2009
        • 2243

        #4
        Originally posted by KnasH
        I noticed that when I turned the key in the ignition, neither the main relay nor the fuel pump relay were clicking on! Swapped the relays into the daily driver, and they worked fine. Next part is fuzzy (was a while ago), but I believe what I did was jump the main relay with two wires and then was able to get spark. This was the only time I have gotten spark.

        What about the ignition switch?
        Does it have the 13 button OBC? Is it asking for you to input the code? The OBC may have disabled the car with that CODE feature.

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          No spark and no fuel means;

          No timing data to the DME
          A DME power or ground problem
          A bad DME

          Since you tried the DME in another car and it worked fine there, we can rule that out. That leaves the first two to be investigated.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • KnasH
            Noobie
            • Jul 2011
            • 6

            #6
            re: ignition switch - performed checkout procedure, and everything looks a-ok.

            re: OBC - If the OBC needed a code to start the car, would there be a prompt on the screen? i.e "CODE" or something like that? It just shows the clock.

            re: DME - I've checked all the grounds, and everything seems ok. I haven't checked all the power pins though. That will be my next step. How can I check for timing data getting to DME? I did the checkout procedure for the CPS and it looked good.

            Thanks for ideas! Keep them coming!

            Comment

            • matt0300
              E30 Addict
              • Mar 2011
              • 549

              #7
              or bad cps.....

              Comment

              • matt0300
                E30 Addict
                • Mar 2011
                • 549

                #8
                the only way to find out if its bad for sure is to swap it

                Comment

                • Sagaris
                  R3VLimited
                  • Sep 2009
                  • 2243

                  #9
                  Another item directly related to the CPS would be the harmonic balancer. It is a two-piece assembly bonded together with a rubber ring. If the balancer comes apart (yes, it happens) ithe toothed ring can wobble and the CPS wont be able to see it . It should be apparent while watching the engine crank to see if the CPS has a fair chance at reading the toothed ring on the harmonic balancer. Probably not the issue, but it is certainly easy enough to check in order to cross yet another possibility off the list.

                  Comment

                  • KnasH
                    Noobie
                    • Jul 2011
                    • 6

                    #10
                    I checked out the power-in and the grounds for the DME today, and everything looks good. Next I'll swap the CPS's tomorrow and see how it goes. I'll also look at the harmonic balancer. Is it possible that the clearance between the CPS and harmonic balancer is off? I know the tolerance is 1 mm, and it looks to be about that.

                    Comment

                    • matt0300
                      E30 Addict
                      • Mar 2011
                      • 549

                      #11
                      Is it possible u have the cps and the lead off the 6th sparkplug wire switched?

                      Comment

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