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Jim,
I spent the better part of tonight chasing those wires and could never get power to pin 86 on the main relay without the key on. I followed that little green then red/green wire all the way back to something called the on board computer relay box and had continuity all the way. One thing I did find was two wires were crossed on the big round connector on the firewall so I fixed those, one of them was an injector ground, so maybe that fixed the injector problem, but the car had run that way before so who knows. Now that I did all that and felt all proud of myself I hook the battery back up and i get nothing, no 12v at the starter now, so I must have disconnected something under the dash, man I know this is something easy but it just keeps stumping me! I also put a fuse back in position 27 and it blew as soon as I hooked the battery up, so I guess there is a problem there too. It might be easier to find a parts car and swap the entire harness!
Ack, Put back whatever you moved, hell it ran before right?
Anyway, here's the fuel pump circuit. As Jim mentioned, if you pull fuse 11, and the pumps still run, the problem absolutely has to be in between the fusebox and the pumps.
If you still suspect otherwise, Unplug the main firewall connector, C101 and turn the key on.
OK, I found out C101 is the big one by the fuse box. It helps to actually read the ETM! Anyways, I got to thinking about what some of the members here told me about someone doing some electrical work on my car for me so I decided to redo all my checks. I totally unwrapped the wiring from the firewall back to the back seat and to the console tonight and I discovered some stuff I did not notice before...EVERY single wire/circuit has been cut and reconnected (with the 'ol twist method)...wanting to get the car running I untaped everything, checked continuity and re-taped it for soldering or complete replacement at a later date. As I was re-tracing my GRN/VIO fuel pump wire for the second time I noticed an oddball wire (it was hot with the key ON) coming out of the loom, so I unwrapped it and lo and behold they had spliced this hot wire into the fuel pumps, I removed it and the run-on fuel pump problem is now gone!
Now, after I did this and did all the retaping and checking wires I hoked the battery up and still no 12V at the BLK/YEL wire at the starter, WTF!!! Remembering I had found two switched wires at the C101 a night or two before I untaped it again and gave the wires a slight tug, as I did this I could hear relays clicking. I unhook the battery, untaped the stuff I hadn't messed with before and four wires just fell apart, one of them was the BLK/YEL for the starter. I hooked them all back together, hooked the battery up and she fired right up! It idles crazy as hell and the temp gauge didn't work and the CEL is blinking like hell but hey at least its running! Time to search the post for the CEL and the idle surging! Thanks for all the help guys, hopefully it will run more than one day this time!
I got this F(*^ing thing running last night, drove it for about 20 minutes and when I parked it I disconnected the battery out of habit since it's been sitting so long. So I'm happy and shit and go oout this afternoon to start her up and look some stuff over and shes DEAD AS A F*&*(ing DOORNAIL, it just cranks and cranks and does not start or even fire....well I guess I know it's not the wires now......unless I missed something else.
Ok, so I start checking everything out again and here is what I came up with. Again this is on an 86 352es, 35 pin DME connector. The car cranks over just fine.
DME - NO POWER except at pin 4 when cranking the engine (swapped DME just for grins and still nothing)
MAIN RELAY - Power at pin 30 only, regardless of key position (last night I would get more power, notably to pin 86 but only when the key was ON as it goes through the Onboard Computer Relay Box whatever that is)
FUEL PUMP RELAY - Hot at pin 30 only, pumps do not run, they will run when I jump pin 30 and pin 87
No power to FUSE 11
No Spark from Coil or otherwise
Both CPS tested in the car @ 948 Ohms each
Battery Junction Block - 12V at all relevant points
I am stumped, this thing ran last night for about 30 minutes before I shut it down. It idled like crap undulation between 800-2000 RPMs and the CHECK light would not stop blinking, I did notice I had three lights lit up in the indicator above the mirror and the dashlights/temp gauge were dead. Any help or idea will be greatly appreciated.:(
Thanks in advance, Wendell
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