headers and i intake on eta?

[gokepsgo]

Ok gotcha. I'm guessing it wouldn't be a good idea to run this without a chip though. I'm wondering if a seta ecu would work. I mean it can't be that bad getting all of these parts from a junkyard and the only thing that sounds scary is the wiring part. How does that eta stand against a real I? I could imagine that setup being a lot of fun and a great head start until I can get the money/balls to attempt a 327I. I like looking in my engine bay and seeing a real 1987 m20. Makes me feel super old school, even if I was born after my car was (89)

[Wanganstyle]

Engines make power from having both Mechanical components configured and Electronical items mapped to match. BOTH must be done to create = power, not just one side.

without cylinder head of "i' you are wasting time installing parts.
without matching computer settings, most mechanical alterations are a WASTE OF TIME.

Wait untill you are ready to change the cylinder head to an "i" unit and install (plug and play) the entire 1.3 motronic wiring harness+ecu+sensors

Ideal would be to find a complete 325i engine w/harness+ecu with bad bottom end to buy and use to make a :

"2.7i"

around town and in the mountains the ETA engine may be faster than the "i" 2.5.

if you want more acceleration, change the final drive to 3.46 or 3.64 or 3.73.

Shift EARLY is the key to going fastest with eta - the cam does not want to go past its peak (like 4,000 rpm). without changing camshaft (and everything else to utilize it), adding RPM's is making the ETA slower.

if you are trying to max out speed in the ETA engine, you would be shifting at ~ 4,000 rpm instead of 5,000 rpm. from 4,300-5,000 range the cam is totally dead and using the engine in that range is producing less power than from 3,500-4,300 rpm.

SO, if you want to go SLOWER; run the ETA engine in higher rpm zone than its cammed for - then you can utilize LESS power than everyone with a stock ETA if that is your goal.