Oil pan removal question

[barry]

Ok Guy's

I have all the bolts removed from the plate that bolts to the bottom front of the tranney to remove my oil pan. It is very tight, I have the passenger side loose, the drivers side is still tight, but I can move the plate up and down, is there away to loosen it with out using some agressive means? It has never been removed so I'm thinking it is just stuck and dirty etc.
Thanks for your help
Barry

[freeride53]

Yes. Get a nice flathead crew driver tap the sides at the gasket.
Spray bolt with some wd40 and keep at it.

[barry]

Ok, will do.. Is there a sleeve in one of the holes for line up purposes?
Thanks
Barry

[Ceeker]

You will need to undo one motor mount and jack the tranny up to get the plate to clear the sway bar. OR loosen or drop the sway bar. I JUST finished removing my oil pan from my vert. The steps I suggests are to remove the two bolts holding the rack in so you can move it to get to a couple 10m bolts. I undone the pass side mount from the block and jacked the motor up for the plate to clear the sway bar. Something was still holding on which was the 4th torx bolt that I couldn't see since the tranny lines from my auto were covering it. I pried it off and broke the corner off. it is only a cover which doesn't require 8 bolts to hold it in..Typical bmw overkill. You will need to use a flat head as suggested to get it loose. Once off you then need to remove the remaining 6 10m bolts. the pan should drop to give you enough clearance to remove the 4 13m bolts holding the oil pump on. Let that drop into the pan and slide the pan out. I think jacking the motor up is the best way to give you enough room to clean the block side and to install a new gasket.

[barry]

Hey thanks

Ya I took the sway bar bolts out and have plenty of room to manuver the plate its really dirty and grimmny. I have all the oil pan bolts out except the six.
Thanks for your detailed help
Barry

Got all the bolts out, plate is soaking in kerosene. Next raise motor and remove pump.

[barry]

Bump last question

Ok got the oil pan loose.. Need to raise engine? Can I undo the nut on the rubber mount to raise it or should I undo the four bolts on each steel mount? Also how many bolts hold the oil pump and what size bolt is it?
Thanks again for all your help
Barry

[F34R]

Bump last question

Ok got the oil pan loose.. Need to raise engine? Can I undo the nut on the rubber mount to raise it or should I undo the four bolts on each steel mount? Also how many bolts hold the oil pump and what size bolt is it?
Thanks again for all your help
Barry

Do you own a engine hoist? If so go with that route and lift the engine enough to slide it out. And leave the mounts connected to the block. It will be MUCH easier to line up two holes instead of messing with putting the mounts back on the engine. I would change the engine mounts while I was there too.

When I did it in the car I just left it on. ANd I believe it is a few 10mm bolts. I honestly forgot even though I am rebuilding a m20.

Good luck and take your time removing the pan. Not worth breaking parts.

[barry]

Ok thanks for your input, exactly my thinking, I'll need to borrow an engine hoist.
barry

[jlevie]

I'd use an engine brace over a hoist. You don't have to remove the hood and feet of the hoist won't be in the way. If I change the pan with the engine in the car I support and lift the engine with an engine brace and drop the subframe as far as it will go with the steering coupler disconnected.

[barry]

Thanks Jean

Makes sense to me, that is a lot easier. Appreciate your help
Thanks
Barry

[F34R]

I'd use an engine brace over a hoist. You don't have to remove the hood and feet of the hoist won't be in the way. If I change the pan with the engine in the car I support and lift the engine with an engine brace and drop the subframe as far as it will go with the steering coupler disconnected.

(My picture)
I left the hood on and the removed the mounts, then I let the subframe hang from the suspension. Then I just extend the hoists arm from the passenger side fender. It is a little tricky getting the steering sleeve back on. What I did was unbolt that and slide it out 3" bolted the subframe back on and then install the rack WHILE sliding the steering coupler back and tapping with a hammer on the rack.

[F34R]

Pay no mind to the messy engine, that is out and being turned into a 2.8 stroker with more goodies than a 2k hooker.

Granted I took the subframe out because I had to do the control arms and eyeball bushings. But you can see how I left the rack hanging in place to keep alinement. You can see how I used the engine mount arms for the hoist chains.

[barry]

Ok so after thinking about it, I decided to undo the bottom nut on the engine mounts, I then got my floor jack and a small piece of wood, put jack under tranny and raised the motor 1 inch and the pan fell out. Prior to the jacking I un did the three 13MM bolts from the oil pump.
Thanks guys for your help
Barry

[Kommando]

What is preventing the pan from coming out that requires the engine to be moved?

I did mine in April and did not move the engine, just undid all the bolts on the pan, the cover on the tranny swiveled out of the way, and unbolted the sump and oil level sensor, whole thing slid right out.

[barry]

Just easier to get at the oil pump bolts otherwise it is also easier to put back on.