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Just purchased an '87 325is...Need help. (Pics/video)

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    Just purchased an '87 325is...Need help. (Pics/video)

    Hey. I've spent the last couple months before buying this trying to learn, but there's nothing like having the thing sit in your garage to see what's what. I've done a lot of searching on many forums, and have found a lot of conflicting symptoms/resolutions to the stuff I'm seeing.

    It seems to run great, but there are a few small issues I'd like to get opinions on before I try and remedy them.

    First, when the car is started from cold, the fan clutch (I assume) is making a loud squeak that eventually goes away after about 15 minutes. There looks to be a lot of play/movement in the fan as well, which I'm assuming is a bad thing. I drove it over 100 miles home, and the temp gauge was steadily in the middle, didn't seem to have any heat issues.

    Second, the Idle Control Valve makes a fairly loud buzz when the key is in the ignition but not 'on'. Is this normal?

    Third, the engine ticks pretty good, I'm assuming this is no big deal, and can be remedied by valve adjustment and maybe a different viscosity of oil?

    Here's a video of those issues:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU5nKnHRfjU

    After all of that, I have two leaks that I need to address. The biggest one is the coolant leaks from the bottom connection on the throttle body -- when I squeeze the big hose from the radiator, you can hear air coming through that connection -- does this just need a new hose/clamp? I've heard of people bypassing it entirely, but I haven't found anything conclusive whether that is good or not.

    The second leak is a very slow (usually slow, sometimes it will drop a fair amount) oil drip. I got under the car and tried to see where it was coming from, and it looks like a lot of oil is around everything, which I'm hoping isn't a bad thing. I took a lot of pictures and uploaded them to see if something jumps out at anyone smarter than I am.

    Link to pictures:
    http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h270/jtfdzn/325is/

    That's it! Sorry to take up everyone's time...

    #2
    welcome! post pics of your car ;)

    1st:the fan clutch can actually be removed completely (some may advice against this, but ive ran my car without a fan clutch, and the temp stays right where it should, granted i refreshed my entire cooling system) if you dont have the funds at the moment to get a new one.

    2nd: someone chime on this portion, but i believe that just means its getting power. do you have idle issues? if not, your totally fine

    3rd: what oil weight are you using currently? if a higher viscosity of oil doesnt help the ticking, I would recommend a valve adjustment. plus many r3v/m20 fanatics will tell you the m20 will tick. so dont be scared :)
    -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
    91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
    08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
    04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


    Originally posted by IronJoe
    Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

    Originally posted by 2mAn
    Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
      welcome! post pics of your car ;)

      1st:the fan clutch can actually be removed completely (some may advice against this, but ive ran my car without a fan clutch, and the temp stays right where it should, granted i refreshed my entire cooling system) if you dont have the funds at the moment to get a new one.
      The purpose of the clutch is to disengage as temps go down and as you drive so your not putting excess deag on the motor. running clutchless will just cause the fan to run at whatever RPM the motor is at no matter what and actually feel like a loss in power as well.

      Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
      3rd: what oil weight are you using currently? if a higher viscosity of oil doesnt help the ticking, I would recommend a valve adjustment. plus many r3v/m20 fanatics will tell you the m20 will tick. so dont be scared :)
      Valve adjustments are a requirement but the M20 will usually always sound like a sewing machine when driving. Usually at idle most people hear the injectors opening and closing not the valves.

      1987 Alpinweiß 325is

      Like the PNW E30 Local Crew Facebook page

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by PNWDan View Post
        The purpose of the clutch is to disengage as temps go down and as you drive so your not putting excess deag on the motor. running clutchless will just cause the fan to run at whatever RPM the motor is at no matter what and actually feel like a loss in power as well
        I think he was referring to taking the entire fan and clutch out. With no clutch, the fan has no way to mount to the waterpump.

        As long as your cooling system has been refreshed and you are sure that your auxiliary fan is in working order, there is no downside to running without the clutch. Personally I would install an aftermarket slim fan as your cooling source and ditch the stock fan. They are prone to failure and if for some reason the clutch is dead and you didnt know it, you are screwed if the stock aux fan is donzo.


        Taylor
        Need a performance chip for you BMW? Shoot me a PM and I'll get you taken care of!!
        Taylor- Follow me on Instagram @e30_fiend


        Comment


          #5
          ICV buzz is normal.
          Originally posted by Dozyproductions
          You know why you're drinking that Pabst? No its probably not because it was the first beer you grabbed. It's because you're a winner.

          Comment


            #6
            Is that your fan wobbling as the motor is running?
            Yours truly,
            Rich
            sigpic
            Originally posted by Rigmaster
            you kids get off my lawn.....

            Comment


              #7
              The wobbling fan probably means a worn water pump, though it could be a bad fan clutch. I'd replace the pump and fan clutch (along with the timing belt and tensioner). The squeak could be from that that, but it sounds more like a bad alternator, power steering pump, or AC compressor. The ticking noise could be from mis-adjusted valve, or worn valve guides/rockers in the head.
              Last edited by jlevie; 09-22-2011, 05:28 AM.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jtfdzn View Post

                First, when the car is started from cold, the fan clutch (I assume) is making a loud squeak that eventually goes away after about 15 minutes. There looks to be a lot of play/movement in the fan as well, which I'm assuming is a bad thing. I drove it over 100 miles home, and the temp gauge was steadily in the middle, didn't seem to have any heat issues.

                Second, the Idle Control Valve makes a fairly loud buzz when the key is in the ignition but not 'on'. Is this normal?

                Third, the engine ticks pretty good, I'm assuming this is no big deal, and can be remedied by valve adjustment and maybe a different viscosity of oil?

                Here's a video of those issues:



                After all of that, I have two leaks that I need to address. The biggest one is the coolant leaks from the bottom connection on the throttle body -- when I squeeze the big hose from the radiator, you can hear air coming through that connection -- does this just need a new hose/clamp? I've heard of people bypassing it entirely, but I haven't found anything conclusive whether that is good or not.

                The second leak is a very slow (usually slow, sometimes it will drop a fair amount) oil drip. I got under the car and tried to see where it was coming from, and it looks like a lot of oil is around everything, which I'm hoping isn't a bad thing. I took a lot of pictures and uploaded them to see if something jumps out at anyone smarter than I am.
                squeak are usually belt related and check the f+R main seal for oil leak.
                Bought parts from me before? leave your feedback here

                Comment

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