M20 rebuild - i have questions -

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  • zzbearcat
    Noobie
    • Jan 2011
    • 8

    #1

    M20 rebuild - i have questions -

    I have decided to get one thread going for assistance while I rebuild this M20. Here's what I have:
    1987 BMW 325i, automatic, rebuilding a good running m20 from a 1989 325i. The motor in the car is making a noise from within and the M20 I have on the stand ran well, but there were many unknowns and I don't want to re-install an engine in a year or so. If I can find a deal on a 5 speed when the time comes, I would like to just do it all at one time.

    Here's my first question- how do I hold the intermediate shaft pulley while I break the nut loose and does any one have a front bearing carrier for this engine? I cracked mine today. Thanks
  • Ceeker
    R3VLimited
    • Sep 2009
    • 2821

    #2
    put an impact socket on it with an air gun-should work. if not you have to be careful not to snap the cover if you decide to jam a screw driver in or piece of wood wedged between the teeth and cover. you are speaking of the free spinning timing belt pulley right?
    sigpic

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    • zzbearcat
      Noobie
      • Jan 2011
      • 8

      #3
      Already broke the cover. Looking for one now. The oil pump has already been removed and the shaft if "very free". Have to get a 1/2 drive socket for the impact tomorrow but Im not so sure that will work since it spins so easy. Im going to have to hold it somehow. I need some more input on this. Thanks

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      • scottinAZ
        E30 Fanatic
        • Dec 2009
        • 1312

        #4
        hold it stationary with an old timing belt, and use an impact gun, or a freind with a ratchet.
        I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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        • zzbearcat
          Noobie
          • Jan 2011
          • 8

          #5
          I held it with a old belt like a strap wrench but I let it roll up under the cover and I broke it. I was thinking of holding the belt with vise grips next time and use an impact gun.
          Any more suggestions and some one with a cover for sale?
          Thanks

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          • zzbearcat
            Noobie
            • Jan 2011
            • 8

            #6
            All pulleys & sprockets off.
            Is the woodruff key in the crank rounded? Thanks

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            • Spaz!
              Advanced Member
              • Oct 2011
              • 157

              #7
              A pipe wrench works wonders! I havent had my m20 that far apart yet but I have used a pipe wrench in similar applications. Several sheets of paper will save you from marring the pulley if that is a concern.
              '82 633CSi (euro) Jaws!
              '84 318i, project?
              '05 745li, DD when it wants to be...
              '87 Corolla FX16, old faithful
              '89 V1500 Suburban, GP rig
              '69 Columbia 36 MkI, retirement home.

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              • zzbearcat
                Noobie
                • Jan 2011
                • 8

                #8
                Crank is out, everything so far so good. Crank is well within spec.
                1- Where are the colored dots on the crank, webbing, bearings? I don't see any color anywhere. Its a 89 with about 200k so I may never see them.
                2- Here are the part numbers on the bearings, rod - 1 284 843, main - 1265 460. Is there a preference or suggestions in regard to bearing manufacturer. The Kolbenschmidt mains match up number for number. The Glyco rod bearings cross to Glyco or KS. Any thoughts on this.
                Thanks

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                • efficient
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Feb 2012
                  • 3312

                  #9
                  gonnA bump this old thread and ask if anyone knows anything about KS parts ? just seen it on bma's website and was wondering if its a good name brand?
                  thanks!
                  nevermind. found out that ks stands for Kolbenschmidt.
                  Last edited by efficient; 03-02-2013, 11:36 PM.

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