Direct Connector Injector Harness

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • 5Toes
    Banned
    • May 2010
    • 9836

    #1

    Direct Connector Injector Harness

    I couldn't figure out a good way to word the title.

    Basically, as I was pulling my intake manifold... the fuel injector harness connector (underneath) was not unscrewing I tried and tried. I found the part of the connector that is supposed to lock into the ring to let you unscrew it... but it was stripped out on the plastic part. I put on vicegrips to the bottom half and grabbed the top with channellocks... well it cracked the plastic of the upp part. So I was fucked

    So I looked up how to get the thing off and read that SpecE30 guys just hardwire each one. I needed the manifold off then so I cut the harness ABOVE the connector. The connector is still on the car yet to be unscrewed...

    So I have a box of 100 nice pink size butt joints in my room and 100 corresponding heatshrink ends that fit over each end of the buttjoints.

    Would it be good enough to just butt joint each wire? There are 7. I would use the heatshrink ends and then wrap them all together in electrical tape.

    What would you guys recommend? I also have discovered the problem of wire length, I cut the harness about 2 inches up from the connector... a bit too far up. How can I get the bottom wires farther up to make the butt joint idea work?
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530

    #2
    The right way to fix this is to go to a salvage yard and get a replacement electrical rail. If you aren't going to do it right way, you will have to splice in some wire ro make the harness long enough.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

    • SlamedIAm
      Grease Monkey
      • May 2011
      • 318

      #3
      At the very least solder your connections and heatshrink it. Don't use but connectors.

      Comment

      • 5Toes
        Banned
        • May 2010
        • 9836

        #4
        Alright I guess I will get out to a yard. But even to do that... I will still have to splice the wires of the new harness to the old

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          Originally posted by 5Toes
          Alright I guess I will get out to a yard. But even to do that... I will still have to splice the wires of the new harness to the old
          No, that shouldn't be true unless you destroyed the engine side of the connector. In which case you should replace the engine harness or splice in a good connector.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • 5Toes
            Banned
            • May 2010
            • 9836

            #6
            I cut all of the wires 2 inches up from the connector... I needed the mani off and that connector was NOT budging.

            So I will splice each wire individually with the wires from the new connector.

            Great tutorial for this I found a year ago - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281500

            Comment

            • paperplane94
              E30 Addict
              • Jul 2011
              • 420

              #7
              Its called the "c191" connector.

              Search for that on google and you might get some nice tutorials.

              Comment

              • 5Toes
                Banned
                • May 2010
                • 9836

                #8
                paperplane, just read loads on this issue.

                Jlevie, I think re-using another connector is probably a bad idea. I am searching for a universal type thing now, but am having no luck

                Comment

                • 5Toes
                  Banned
                  • May 2010
                  • 9836

                  #9
                  Maybe something like this?

                  http://www.jegs.com/i/Painless-Perfo...rentProductId=

                  Comment

                  • 5Toes
                    Banned
                    • May 2010
                    • 9836

                    #10


                    Thats what I am using



                    Now to Napa to special order the damn things

                    Comment

                    • paperplane94
                      E30 Addict
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 420

                      #11
                      Looks like it will work!


                      Did you need any wiring diagrams, I know a few good sites.

                      Comment

                      • 5Toes
                        Banned
                        • May 2010
                        • 9836

                        #12
                        Umm I can figure it out from the connector. Easy stuff. This wire to that one.

                        Comment

                        • 5Toes
                          Banned
                          • May 2010
                          • 9836

                          #13
                          I just hope I can crimp these okay with the Channellock 909 crimpers

                          Comment

                          • paperplane94
                            E30 Addict
                            • Jul 2011
                            • 420

                            #14
                            That should work fine.

                            worse to worse, break out the vise-grips.

                            Comment

                            • 5Toes
                              Banned
                              • May 2010
                              • 9836

                              #15
                              lol yup.

                              I hope Napa can get these by Friday. I hope I hope I hope

                              I also hope that I dont have to splice in extra wire length :)

                              Comment

                              Working...