New waterpump, t-stat, radiator and hoses and this car is still overheating at an idle when I drive it its fine. Sry leme back up a minute its a 1991 325i rebuilt motor with a 5 speed swap and the car runs an drives awesome.. Just overheats at an idle. The car originally was giving all the signs of vaporlock. Radiator hoses ballooning, cold side and warm side of the radiator and radiator was actually expanding and ruined it so got a new radiator and water pump along with a t-stat. And car is doing the same thing again... Someone plz help me this is my girlfriends daily and I need this car running asap!
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Overheating plz help I need this fixed asap
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The ballooning of the hoses sounds like excessive pressure in the cooling system, which could be from a small head gasket leak that is pumping air into the cooling system. It also sounds like the fan clutch may be bad.
With the engine and radiator at operating temperature drag a rolled up newspaper against the fan blade tips. A good clutch will shred the newspaper before you can stop the fan.
A simple check for a head gasket leak is to fully bleed the cooling system (procedure below), drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and rebleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket failure. Another clue would be hard radiator hoses after the car has completely clooled down.
1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.
2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.
3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.
4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500rpm for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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I am having some overheating problems as well. I just replaced: the radiator, two radiator hoses, a head gasket, the water pump and the thermostat. I tried the bentley method for bleeding the system, however, it doesn't work. For some reason only the hose that goes from the t-stat housing to the water pump gets hot. Is my t-stat stuck?
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Originally posted by 325ix View PostI am having some overheating problems as well. I just replaced: the radiator, two radiator hoses, a head gasket, the water pump and the thermostat. I tried the bentley method for bleeding the system, however, it doesn't work. For some reason only the hose that goes from the t-stat housing to the water pump gets hot. Is my t-stat stuck?The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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incorrect ignition timing and A/F ratio can cause an engine to run hotter than normal.Dave @ Bimmerbuddies
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my engine was the same way when i got it. water pump went out and after replacing lifting the front end on ramps didnt bleed it worth shit.. i found a nice little trick though
what did finally work for me and has worked everytime i bleed my car
buy a 7 doller oil pump from the autoparts store or walmart the type that looks like a ketchup dispenser from a fast food place,
stick it on your bottle of coolant and pump it a few times to prime
dissconnect the small hose coming from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank
and hook that hose to the pump and pump away first with the bleed screw cracked open on the thermo housing the close screw and pump until it fills your resivar
then when the tank is full i usually stick the bottom of the pump into the expansian tank
and pump for a few more mins to force any left over air in the system out, without overflowing the coolant
hope this helps! its worked for me everytime when nothing else would
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I would like to jump in on this thread. I am battling heat issues as well. When bleeding via the bleed screw on the thermostat housing, some times when I open it nothing comes out, other times coolant comes out. And other times still, it is obvious that air is coming out because there are obvious bubbles. Shouldn’t something always come out? Or is the lack of anything coming out a sign that there is an extremely large amount of air in the system?
Thanks.
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Originally posted by C!ph3r View PostI would like to jump in on this thread. I am battling heat issues as well. When bleeding via the bleed screw on the thermostat housing, some times when I open it nothing comes out, other times coolant comes out. And other times still, it is obvious that air is coming out because there are obvious bubbles. Shouldn’t something always come out? Or is the lack of anything coming out a sign that there is an extremely large amount of air in the system?
Thanks.
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cool thank. i will give it a couple more tries when the engine cools. If a water pump was bad, would be completely bad? what i mean is after it idles a while the temp gauge goes over 1/2. but i can rev the engine to about 1500 and watch the temp gauge go down while i am revving up the engine.
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Originally posted by C!ph3r View Postcool thank. i will give it a couple more tries when the engine cools. If a water pump was bad, would be completely bad? what i mean is after it idles a while the temp gauge goes over 1/2. but i can rev the engine to about 1500 and watch the temp gauge go down while i am revving up the engine.
And use the bleed procedure posted above.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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