Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car died while driving..fuel related??

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Car died while driving..fuel related??

    I was getting on the highway today under moderated acceleration and my car died, all the electronics were fine nothing leaking. After I pulled over and it would crank but not start. Normally I would assume fuel pump but I just replaced it 500 miles ago. Is there some kind of fuel fuse/reley that could have gone bad or maybe something else...Any help would be appreiciated thanks.

    #2
    check your relays. it was the last thing a friend and I checked before we noticed that it had only hopped out it's socket, i was stranded for 3 hours.


    Originally posted by yert315
    Your mother is plug n play

    Comment


      #3
      I had the same thing

      check the cable from the fuel rail to the throttle

      I don't know how its removed last time !


      M20B28 Turbo

      My Build Thread

      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=255839

      Comment


        #4
        Could also be a bad ground if your relay is fine. Try cleaning the negative terminal connections and check any other misc. grounds.

        Comment


          #5
          The first check would be to look in the oil filler cap and see if then cam turns when cranking the engine. If it doesn't the timing belt has broken and there will be bent valves.

          If the timing belt is okay, check to see if spark is present when cranking. If you have spark, tee in a pressure gauge and see what the rail pressure is when cranking. If the pressure is low, check to see if the pump is running when cranking.

          No spark and no fuel pump operation when cranking will be:

          No timing data to the DME (CPS)
          No power to the DME (main relay or fusible link)
          No START signal to the DME (ignition switch or wiring)
          A failed DME

          Fuel pump operation and correct rail pressure but no spark will be:

          Bad coil
          Bad ignition wires
          Distributor rotor/cap
          No power to the coil

          Spark but no fuel pump operation will be:

          Fuel pump relay
          Fuel pump fuse
          Fuel pump

          Note that a bad FPR can result in incorrect rail pressure when everything else is okay.

          If the engine has spark and correct rail pressure, check (with a noid light) to see if the injectors are firing.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment


            #6
            Ya the timing belt was just replaced along with the spark plugs and wires and everything. And like I said fuel pump along with fuel filter and injectors were cleaned and o rings replaced..So im leaning towards the reley. Im going to go check it right now

            Comment


              #7
              Which one is the Fuel pump relay?
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                Orange one to the right of white one I think
                sigpic
                Parts Wanted
                The Never-ending Resto Mod

                Comment


                  #9
                  Wondering aloud if it is the last thing done. Theory - Fuel pump electrical connection not tightened down. Worked fine for awhile then worked itself loose after 500 miles.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Of course no one had the fpr so I ordered it. I am going to check the fuel pump connection tomorrow and check the spark. I pulled out the spark plugs today and they looked like they could use replacing so I did just for shits and no difference. I'll keep everyone updated

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Take a multi meter and test the voltage at the fuel pump connector by cranking the engine while having the meter hooked up to the connector. If you're getting 12 volts then your pump has gone out. Happened to me, I even went to BMW and purchased a new relay before checking voltage.... waisted my money. Buuuut this will be useless if you haven't already checked for spark. Good luck and I hope I helped. :up:

                      6287156541_32b0c468f4_z-1 by SoCalian_SD, on Flickr

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I checked for spark today and no spark..so I guess now its down to the wires or distributor cap? Although I'm fairly certain those were also replaced recently by the po. Is there anyway to just run a test to figure out which one it is before buying a shit ton of parts??

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Start with the basic stuff... It is likely electrical. Test your main relay first. When you turn the key on, make sure your Check Engine light comes on. Lift your rear seat and crank the motor while listening for the fuel pump. If you don't hear anything like a buzzing from under the rear, whack the pump cover while cranking the motor.

                          Closing SOON!
                          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I Had a similar problem with my car, I fitted a new crank angle sensor and that fixed the problem.


                            329i

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Are you talking about the crank position sensor? but would the cps stop the ignition from working? I should still be getting a spark right? Im also going to replace the main relay since its cheap.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X