Car cuts out randomly, sometimes it won't accelerate. Heres a video of what it's doing and keep in mind I am not revving the engine.
Anyone got any guesses?
Anyone got any guesses?
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-Alex -
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sounds like the car is not getting enough air. I had a stuck throttle plate on a different car once and it had the same symptom.Comment
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Looks like a vacuum leak or bad ICV. Any mods to the engine or anything else we should know about the car? If you screw in the throttle adjustment screw on the throttle body, does it go away? If not, get some soapy water on your vac lines and see if you can find a leak.Comment
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My guesses are intake leaks, a bad TPS, bad or dirty ICV, or a combination of those. A smoke test should be the first action.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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This is only happening under load... It idles just fine for the most part. So I don't really think it's the ICV or intake leaks.-AlexComment
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Have you checked your TPS for correct operation ?Originally posted by acolella76 View PostLorin
Originally posted by slammin.e28Comment
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Yeah, TPS is fine.Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
About a week ago I extended the coil wires (12v and ground) so I could hide the coil behind the headlight. No problems happened after that, but just the other night I thought it would look cleaner if I put the wires in that plastic wire shielding so I did. Didn't take the wires off of the coil, I just covered them. Ever since I covered the wires the car has been doing this, so I'm just guessing it's coil related. Didn't really think about that until now. But idk what is going on/how to fix it.-AlexComment
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Check your grounding points, especially the oil pan to body cable and clean them well.Comment
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???? Sounds like a case of remove gun from holster, point at foot, pull trigger. Then yell loudly in pain.Originally posted by acolella76 View Post
Put the coil back where it was in the OE configuration and return the wiring wiring to its original state. Go from there. Oh yeah, unless new, replace the ignition wires with new parts.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, ALComment
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Wires, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. all done this past summer. Still look brand new. I doubt shortening the wires is going to make a difference... splicing wires is splicing wires, not really much to mess up there. I made sure to use the same gauge wire by cutting off the coil wires from a spare harness that I have. Even in the same mounting location the coil is still acting up.-AlexComment
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I was leaning towards stuck AFM.
Then I read how it changed after you did something.
Pull the looming. I don't see how that could really affect anything, but stranger things have happened.
But I'm still leaning towards stuck AFM too.Comment
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Doesn't the resistance of the wire change with length?
You should put it back to stock configuration and ohm out the coil itself.Comment
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Thats what I thought too! Took the AFM out and popped the cover off, but it was pretty clean inside and out. I cleaned the inside with MAF cleaner and the contacts with rubbing alcohol just to be safe though.Originally posted by TurboJake View Post
Don't know, does it? Like I said before... the problem didn't start after I extended the wires, it's been running for a while with the extended wires. The problem started when I decided to cover the wires with plastic loomingOriginally posted by paperplane94 View Post-AlexComment
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Uncover the coil wires.
"I changed something, and my car now runs like crap. What do you think is wrong?"
When I worked @ a Land Rover dealer a Range Rover came in with a bolt forced into the suspensions air pump intake, where a plastic intake should have been. Owner took off plastic and threaded in bolt, because who knows why, then, when the suspension immediately faulted out, had it towed to the dealer. Removed bolt, charged customer an hour diagnosis.
Op, undo the last thing you did, THEN, if you still have a problem start checking other systems.Comment
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