Someone diagnose this

[CarsSuck]

Another part in that vicinity would be the CPS and its wiring. Ohm that bish out.

When i had to change the CPS on my car, the wires were very brittle and it was close to spec but not quite. It would go on the fritz whenever it got cold out, and act like your car but not nearly as bad.

[acolella76]

CPS has not even 1k miles on it.

Trust me, if this was something i could 'undo' I would undo it. But it's not possible for me to 'undo' spliced wires unless I go buy a new harness... which at this point I'm not willing to do.

Just for chuckles I checked the volts at the coil and the reading on the multimeter was very very shaky. Went and tested our Chump Car and the reading was smooth... changed coils and nothing different. So I am going to go back and re-solder all of the splices I made. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[jlevie]

I don't see a problem in undoing what you have done. Clip the power and grounding wires at the splices and crimp on new lugs.

[acolella76]

Well now I am stuck in my school parking deck. Now I am getting no spark and no fuel. CPS tested fine per the tests in the Bentley, ECU is getting power. What do?

[jlevie]

No spark and no fuel means:

No timing data to the DME
A DME power or ground issue
No START signal to the DME
Bad DME

[1fastETA]

Sounds like a bad afm

[CarsSuck]

Have you checked to see that you're getting good, clean power from the alternator? You had the bouncy read from the coil, right? My car did all kinds of whacky shit when the voltage regulator wore out. Its like a 10 min fix if you have the bosch alternator.

[acolella76]

Nevermind, fixed it. For some reason my tune got wiped out of the ECU so there was no timing data or anything for it to start up with. Plugged in my laptop, downloaded tune, started right up. Still kind of bucked a little on the road, but I think that is because the CPS isn't torqued down to tightly and is able to move around.