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Let put an end to this weird idle/gas mileage, w/ video.

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    Let put an end to this weird idle/gas mileage, w/ video.

    EDIT: Fixed this issue about 90%. What I ran into was I had sprayed around the intake manifold vacuum hoses multiple times, but did not think about the purge valve vacuum hose. It is somewhat hidden, if looking at the bay from the drivers front fender it would be behind and to the left side of the throttle body.

    I noticed that when I followed the charcole canister, there is a purge valve with a vacuum hose and an electrical connector. Mine was not connected, resulting in worse mileage, unexplained gas smell, and the vacuum leak created a lean condition. Its an easy check.

    Also, I had replaced the cracked oem fuel pressure vacuum hose with the smallest one from advanceautoparts. It was slightly too big, so the guy recommended putting hose clamps. This did not clamp them down all the way, just went to GPS and got the correct vacuum hose and now the car Idles a ton better.




    I picked up my e30 325is back in september, but ive noticed something since ive owned the car.

    When the car starts cold, it idles like its a cammed muscle car. Originally when I had it, it would even out to a normal idle when it reached operating temp.

    Now, it idles like its cammed, whethor its cold or warm. When its warm, its not as bad but still does it.

    Idle is around 600-650 ish, when it used to be about 750 solid when it idled fine warmed up. I have not adjusted the idle at all.

    Gas mileage is still very poor. In the bentley, it said a rich running car would idle erractically or something along those lines.

    My guess: Since the car idles the worst when its cold, its in open loop. Its running off the inputs, and not the o2 sensor. Since the car still idles iffy when its at operating temp, I am wondering if it is stuck in closed loop. This would cause excessive rich conditions, and my poor fuel mileage all the time.

    Ive been sick and cannot smell correctly (damn cold) but Ive also been smelling a gas scent. Ive looked all around the tank (replaced it a couple months back) and the lines seem alright, and no leaks underneith my car ever from what I have noticed. I did notice a smell under the hood, and I know the p/o replaced lines to the rail. I am just wondering if this has any relation to being in open loop.

    I will have a video tomorrow of the idle cold, and one of it when its warm. I am wondering if it is the CTS to the computer, since the coolant temp gauge seems to work fine.

    But besides that, I dont really have anything to check. Please let me know if you guys have had a similar issue, or have an idea of what to check. I am im the process of either swapping/boosting this m20, but either way I would like to figure this out.
    Last edited by Kozworth; 03-06-2012, 02:20 PM.

    #2
    Needs Video...

    Comment


      #3
      Just as a heads up, the volume on these videos are loud then quiet, so turn your volume accordingly. My phone just records weird.

      Cold, Morning start idle.
      This video was uploaded from an Android phone.


      Operating temp idle.
      This video was uploaded from an Android phone.

      This video was uploaded from an Android phone.


      Its kinda hard to hear, but its a very loopy idle. Its around 600 about when warm. In the video, you can hear the fuel pump whining, which I am not sure if its normal or if its weak and on its way out.

      In a nutshell, I notice:
      -Fuel Pump whine
      -Loopy idle
      -Bad mpg (mid teens about)
      -Strong gas smell when started, and then still smells when warm from under the hood
      -600 rpm idle when warm, fluctuates when cold
      -Last time I checked, the FPR vacuum line smelled like gas, but my teacher said 'thats normal, you should be concerned if you see gas'

      -FPR seemed newer from the p p/o (probably <25k miles)
      -O2 sensor wasnt replaced recently (but idles when cold, so its an open loop issue or not pertaining to the o2 sensor since its even when warm)

      I have:
      -Recently replaced gas tank, lines do not seem to leak from tank to the fuel rail
      -Recent Valve adjustment
      -Last time i sprayed all intake lines, did not seem to make an effect
      -Cleaned ICV 2 times with brake clean
      -No loss in power, sometimes a "misfire" somewhat of a jerking acceleration upon heavy load, but it isnt always just if I am whomping on it randomly it would do it
      -Get a cel that stays on for a couple seconds while idling warm (like in a drive thru)
      -No overheating or coolant temp gauge issues
      Last edited by Kozworth; 02-21-2012, 07:42 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Ttt videos added

        Comment


          #5
          Ttt

          Comment


            #6
            AFM flap sticking when cold?

            Check it.


            Chances are the fuel pump whine is separate. Typically associated with a clogged fuel filter, or in the case of the significant others car. A dented fuel tank in the bottom (Which you've replaced), and then a kinked fuel hose leaving by the fuel filter.


            Leave Me Transaction Feedback

            Comment


              #7
              FFuel filter is on the newer side

              I can't flash codes which I assume is tps not reading throttle position but when unplugged it idles way high and plugged in it changes so idk

              Comment


                #8
                Sounds like the valves are too tight. When I had that problem though it got worse as it warmed up. Does your mpg swing all the way to the 40 side when you coast in gear?
                Dave @ Bimmerbuddies
                Contact Bimmerbuddies for all your Parts and service needs
                M20,24V,5spdSwap,Weld,Fab,Tow,Buy/Sell/Trade
                Bimmerbuddies LLC
                717-388-1256
                2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057

                *Ask about discounts for R3V members*

                Comment


                  #9
                  II adjusted the valves to the cold adjustment

                  My speedo and mpg gauge doesn't work

                  Slight drag is vague I did it with a buddy who has done them and we have score marks on the feeler gauges would this really affect the idle to be like this

                  And I do not have performance losses from what I can tell its weird

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I also didn't want to mess with the afm because when I baught the car it would idle like this when cold but when warmed up it would be fine

                    Since its been warmer it isn't as drastic when idling but its still there

                    I am trying to find some fuel line that is reliable enough to replace some lines and so I can fit a t to test the fuel pressure

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Try clamping the return line for a second and see if the car likes the added fuel pressure. I'm telling you tho man. It idles exactly like my Ix did when valves were too tight. I know the adjustment isn't always accurate but try running them a Lil loose and see if it changes. My Ix ran normally but idled like a dragster.
                      Dave @ Bimmerbuddies
                      Contact Bimmerbuddies for all your Parts and service needs
                      M20,24V,5spdSwap,Weld,Fab,Tow,Buy/Sell/Trade
                      Bimmerbuddies LLC
                      717-388-1256
                      2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057

                      *Ask about discounts for R3V members*

                      Comment


                        #12
                        ok what exactly am I looking for when I clamp the return line? If pressure is not going back to the tank, the pressure should build but how would the car exactly react

                        Comment


                          #13
                          See if the idle improves.
                          Dave @ Bimmerbuddies
                          Contact Bimmerbuddies for all your Parts and service needs
                          M20,24V,5spdSwap,Weld,Fab,Tow,Buy/Sell/Trade
                          Bimmerbuddies LLC
                          717-388-1256
                          2971a Roundtop Rd, Middletown PA 17057

                          *Ask about discounts for R3V members*

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok guys, tomorrow is my ultimate diagnosis day since im off, I didnt want to half ass something and not be able to get to school.

                            Anyways, another thing I noticed is that sometimes when it idles, it looks like its at 700rpm but still sputters..

                            Another thing is when the cluster lights are on at night and the car is doing its "usual idle" the lights also start to dim on the cluster as if it was gonna stall out. figured id post here to just add some more info

                            Comment


                              #15
                              So today I tried crimping the return line hose.. It rose the rpms up a couple hundred and idled great no loop...


                              Then it started to die so i removed the vise grips, tried giving it gas... And it just died out. Now the car wont start. I removed the 1st plug, and it didnt seem to be saturated with gas.

                              No lines bursted, I do not really smell gas and there is no gas on the ground.

                              This video was uploaded from an Android phone.


                              EDIT:

                              I fixed the car, Basically it was fuse 13 (fuel pump). I assume since my pump is on the weaker side, when the pressure built up the resistance increased. The fuse had popped (although, i thought when talking ohms law when resistance goes up current goes down?) so it is a simple and easy check.

                              I am gonna swap fuel pumps and see if that helps a little bit more with the idle since I dont have time to check the valves
                              Last edited by Kozworth; 03-02-2012, 12:32 PM.

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