need advice on noise

[Thizzelle]

any more update ekurty? I'm moving to a house so not until I get settled before I can check my rod bearings but mine sounds exactly like yours.

[ekurty]

found a shop called euro-sport here in spartanburg. the guy said he worked on them for 30 years and he had lot full of bmws. he was really nice and took a good listen to it with a few others and said it is a piston slapping the valve shut from bad springs or something with the guides or bent. he recommended finding a rebuilt head it if could cause of all the labor of going in that far. i think im going to get one from myster-e.

[Thizzelle]

yeah i suspected that, because before I did my valve job there was zero clearance on some of them, WTF OP

[paperplane94]

yeah i suspected that, because before I did my valve job there was zero clearance on some of them, WTF OP

EEK

That adjustment may cause a burnt valve, if it doesn't seat when closed the heat won't transfer.

[zzbearcat]

This is Great!! Not the knock, sorry about that. Im just very happy to find a thread this current on this issue, I have the same exact sound I believe. I was afraid it was the bottom end but oil pressure is good and I cannot isolate the sound to the bottom. I get the most distinct sound from using a hose as a stethoscope and placing it right on top of the intake plenum. My valves are adjusted and the rockers/cam checked out as best I could tell. I believe it could still be the head again after seeing all of this. Im going to pull the head. I have another off a running engine. Im in NC and curious/debating what a rework on the head would cost, or should I just go ahead and install the other head.

Not to hijack the thread here but:
If the head is pulled, the contact between the piston and valve should be obvious, correct? If the valve guides are the issue, what would be seen if a valve guide is the problem?

Please keep us posted on your progress and findings here. I will also when I proceed.
Thanks

[ekurty]

i ended up deciding to juss have him fix the head. he said he would do a valve job for 2-400 with me bringing him the head.

[ekurty]

http://youtu.be/-96Q1O_QAQI

here is the noise from inside the car. makes it kind of easier to hear not being so close to the engine.

[Thizzelle]

let us know when it's done

[Thizzelle]

When will you get your head back?

[ekurty]

i got it to guy today and he said it will probably be about a week. i just took it off last weekend and was surprised to not see any damage or spots where there appeared to be contact.

[Thizzelle]

updates?

[Thizzelle]

ekurty got your head installed yet? Noise go away?

[Thizzelle]

update? installed?
Thanks

[ekurty]

the problem ended up being shot crank and rod bearings. when i took the head off there was corrosion about to eat to the exhaust port. dover cylinder heads charged me 400 to clean, deck, weld and rebuild. got it back on and had same sounds , as the shop had said beside the corrosion there was nothing to wrong besides cam wear and valve guides.... i swapped the block to one with 130k est. from anderson automotive and its getting me along fine for the time being. now im looking into rebuilding this block sitting here. it was definitely a learning adventure... ended up costing around 1100 for head, block, n parts to go along (seals, wp, hg, ect.). i may have spent some money in the wrong direction at first but the experience of learning this car has been more than worth it to me. i hope this can help someone who finds them self in a similar situation.

cant see corrosion unfortunately

[luckydog2]

check and see if the number 1 rocker arm keeper is in the correct position, had mine go forward repositioned it and it seems to be running good with no noise. The bently manual states I must get the dogleg portion of the keeper locked, I didn't understand this, but is seems to be tight any ideas