New e30 owner, a couple of questions

[ME30W]

I just bought a clean, rust free 89 325i with 116k and am absolutely loving it so far. It has been taken care of very well and I plan on keeping up with maintenance just as well.

I've read through the boards on what oil is ideal, but there seems to be conflicting answers. The previous owner was using conventional, but I'm not 100% sure as to what type. That being said I plan to change the oil this weekend but I'm not certain what would be best for the car. Given that spring and summer are right around the corner, I don't think low temperatures will be an issue with this change. I would switch to synthetic if it will make a difference, but if it doesn't treat the motor any better I would be happier using conventional and saving $$$ every time I change the oil.

Also, the motor is SO tick-tick-ticky. I know these cars are "sewing machines" but can excessive ticking be telling of a larger problem? The car runs very strong and I haven't had any issues so I would imagine it is normal.


I'm excited to become a member of this community as everyone here seems willing to help other members.

[BergerNJ]

when was the timing belt and water pump done? v belts?

if your po used conventional....I believe you should stick with it. A thinner oil then what was used may open up some leaks and free up some build up.

or is it when you go from conventional to synthetic that happens?

as a good rule of thumb dont trust the po on anything they say and perform routine maintenance now. rather then later on when things go wrong.

You would rather change the t belt then rebuild a head. You would also rather adjust your valves then have it run like shit and wear things out.

[ME30W]

The T belt/pump and belts were done 4k miles ago, I have documentation so there are no worries there.

I'll probably get the valves adjusted soon, how much does that usually run at a reputable shop?

In terms of oil what is the recommended spring/summer weight?

[mikeb23ft]

I switched my car to synthetic after 187k miles of conventional oil and have had no problems. I think it's a good idea to switch since synthetic is better for your engine.

Valve adjustment is a fairly easy job, and you can do it yourself if you're mechanically inclined.

[custom e30]

if u dont do the valve adjustment right then u risk breaking rocker arms at high rpm's...these cars duck like crazy, as long as u know that oil is getting to the cam and covering it like it should i would leave it alone if i where u, just one mans opinion...

[stamar]

I use synthetic but not because it protects better it lasts longer.

I hear a constant ticking but its the injectors.

[bmwstudent]

conventional oil is the way to go for me. I'm a car nut and a professional mechanic. The reason i say this is the less you are under the hood of your car, the longer it goes unmaintained. If you change your oil every 3k or three months, you are more likely to find other problems before they become major issues. With synthetic oil your going 6-7k and then changing the oil. thats fine if you bring the car in and get under it and inspect and grease steering components on a more regular basis. Plus synthetic costs at least twice as much, does your engine leak any oil? If so those are expensive leaks when using synthetic. Just my two cents but, i like dinosaur oil. As long as you use good quality oil and stick with the recommend viscosity for the temperature you live in.

[BKC]

I hear a constant ticking but its the injectors.

Mine too. Completely normal.

[stamar]

ya I have full synthetic( valvoline 3.49 a quart) napa gold filter, 7k miles and its still good. I think it would make it to 10k miles but im sticking to 7500, for the same reason im putting in sythetic.... see if you follow.

I dont really follow the psychological thing of checking more. You need to get use to checking how your oil looks on the dipstick and changing it when its getting bad.

why I want synthetic in is if life all of a sudden changes on me and I dont change the oil on the car for a long time I want the oil to give me some slack.

like for instance in my truck I dont really love it and its been 12k miles. And the synthetic oil is black its overdue. I moved twice across the state and I started commuting with it etc all of a sudden black oil. If that had been dino oil itd be sludged out in 12k miles, synthetic is less sludged. its actually mobil 1 in there with 2 or 3 dino quarts added freshening it up.

but you need to have a long life filter too. Ill do a dino oil fram filter change ( again im about to with my truck) and commit to being on it and changing it in 3k ( i should change it sooner even to get at the sludge i just produced)

[stamar]

I change the oil in 4 vehicles at the moment so im looking for serious savings.


The cheapest I find full synthetic is right now 3.49 a quart for napa brand which is valvoline. so I bought 2 sets for the 2 vehicles, one recomends synthetic or blend thats the 2005 ford f150, one seems to take care of it really well the e30 m20. The 96 camaro and the 89 nissan truck get dino oil.

The camaro goes 200 miles a year forget i mentioned it.

the cheapest I found dino oil is 5 quarts of peak dino and a fram filter for 10$ at oreilly. so basically 2 a quart and a peice of crap filter ( I now have 2 in back up for the truck, actually a fram and an stp which is made by fram ) i will consider a party favor.
the cheap conventional only comes in 5 30 and 10 30. so of the 4 vehicles it only works with the nissan truck anyway.

so even at the cheapest price the synthetic isnt twice as expensive. If it actually lasted twice as long itd be a slam dunk to buy it for all vehicles. the cheap filter only works with conventional oil, so when you get a deal thats conventional oil AND a cheap filter it can back you up. Without intending to I now have 3 back ups for the nissan truck

[UserError]

As another professional mechanic chiming in, I personally use Mobil 1 15W50 during the summer, and 10W40 during the winter. I change every 5k miles or so, on the recommendation of an extremely experienced BMW mechanic I apprenticed with. As for the filter, I always go with the Mann filter, though I do get a bit of a deal on them, buying them and the oil through the shop I work at.

[stamar]

what does the oil look like at 5k?mine looks extremely clean even at 7k miles.


you know mobil 1 had an ad with the e30 m20 where they ran it on 10k oil changes for 1 million miles seems to handle it fine.

I have another truck, can not get to 10k oil changes using synthetic and a larger filter even. Just did a 12k oil change and it was overdue.

one difference I personally believe is 20 50 seems to stay cleaner than 10 30.

[BergerNJ]

what does the oil look like at 5k?mine looks extremely clean even at 7k miles.


you know mobil 1 had an ad with the e30 m20 where they ran it on 10k oil changes for 1 million miles seems to handle it fine.

I have another truck, can not get to 10k oil changes using synthetic and a larger filter even. Just did a 12k oil change and it was overdue.

one difference I personally believe is 20 50 seems to stay cleaner than 10 30.

the million mile ad is good and all but they also followed bmw recommendations to the TEE with repairs and maintenance....hence they spent a lot on parts for upkeep.


For some reason around me I can;t find 20w50 ANYWHERE....only online and through the stealership.


anyone know why? other then its a thicker barely used oil?

[UserError]

20W50 is fairly easy to find, though 15W50, as far as I can tell, is only available in retail as cheap dead dino juice, or Mobil 1. My oil looks somewhat dirty at 5k, and I'd rather replace it before it gets truly nasty, rather than risk gunking up the oil on my daily transportation.

As for the million mile E30 on Mobil 1 with 10k changes, they're welcome to do that, I've seen engines that have been on that oil since new torn down at 100k with quite literally no measurable wear on any oil lubricated component. Still, I change my oil every 5k, if only to have a decent reason to get the car up in the air (lifts are a true gift for mechanics) and check everything out. If you inspect the car regularly, every 3-5k, then stretching the oil change out to 7500 isn't a terrible thing to do.

[stamar]

my full synthetic is 15 50...napa which is rebranded valvoline. might not exist outside the west I dont know.

and im in the middle of nowhere.

I dont find 15 or 20 50 for cheap as often.. Sometimes the big sales only come in 10 30

I honestly have not been to the auto stores in new jersey but castrol valvoline etc are all 20 50.

there is also diesel oil either rotella or chevron delo or store brand, and that is 15 40 which is excellent for winter m20 use.