Sweet, that light is on too.
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-'87 325 - ratbox swap http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...77#post3250277 << Check out my Wanted thread -
Mine gives lots of false alarms.
But it also works when there is a slight leak
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Good to know. This gauge jumping all over the place is nerve racking. I'm driving around with the heat on full blast and it's 78 degrees out.
-'87 325 - ratbox swap http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...77#post3250277 << Check out my Wanted threadComment
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Oh thats gonna be the guage itself. Do a search on that.Comment
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I did, personally I'm not a fan of the search feature in these forums. Although the gauge is bouncing around it still seems to give an average. Which is between middle mark, and 3/4 mark. Not overheating, but a concern none the less.
-'87 325 - ratbox swap http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...77#post3250277 << Check out my Wanted threadComment
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Ok I have seen a youtube video showing refurbing the gage connections.
do a search on youtube.
I have the same problem with my gas gage. its a connection on the back. Its not water tight it gets corroded.Comment
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If you cannot get the air out of the upper rad hose then attach a reservoir with coolant to a small inlet on the top left of the rad. You can then open the bleeder screw to get all the air out. The other option is to drill a small hole (3-4 mm) in the t-stat then start the car with the bleeder screw open, rev it to about 2K to force any trapped air out.Comment
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Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
the method i wrote does bleed it out of that inlet, into the overflow tank....
it just does it naturally a little at a time once the air is in the overflow tank, and its cool open it add coolant.
the method i described is only gonna get a bit out at a time cause the overflow tank is only so big and the rest goes right back to the radiator.
But if youre patient it takes less work to just add coolant. if you want it out now , take the inlet hose off right there. thats your new bleeder screw.Comment
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