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water pump drip from HELL..I think its FIXED

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    water pump drip from HELL..I think its FIXED

    Okay so I did my friends water pump and timing belt the other day because his pump was leaking. I noticed when I pulled the pump one fastener was about an 1/8 longer than the other two. I went and pulled another water pump on a junk motor and sure enough all the same length. So I used the fasteners from the other motor. Well after putting it back together the leak was still there. So I pulled it back apart and tried putting Teflon tape on the threads and again back to leak we go. So this time I pulled it down and tried to look in the threaded holes and not possible. I tried compressed air to confirm it was coming from the hole and nothing. So I put it back together with liquid thread sealant. I let it dry out most of the day before putting coolant back in. I just got done putting in the coolant and the damn thing is leaking again. I would assume the longer fastener has cracked the button and it only spreads open under pressure and heat. I'm wondering if anybody has had a similar problem and what they used to fix it. I need this problem to go away. I'm only doing this as a favor so u can only imagine how I feel about this.
    Last edited by vert_this; 05-11-2012, 12:54 PM.

    #2
    The leak can't be from one of the bolts, they thread into blind holes in the block. Either the new pump is bad or it isn't making a seal to the block. It could be that the surface of the block wasn't cleaned well enough or is corroded, the gasket got damaged during installation, the pump flange isn't flat, or the pump seal is bad.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      I had the same issue with a leaky water pump and it ended up being the gasket. The gasket on the bottom folded up and of course I didnt see it. I ended up coating both sides of the gasket with sealant and havent had a problem since.
      2008 335i - n54b30
      1991 318i - m52b28
      1994 fzj80 - LAND CRUSHER

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        #4
        My leaky water pump ended up leaking through the bushing where the impeller shaft goes through. Cheap ass bav auto crap!
        My Transaction Feedback

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          #5
          Are you positive the leak isn't coming from the weep hole and wicking around the bottom of the sealing surfaces?

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            #6
            Originally posted by EVillalonRN View Post
            My leaky water pump ended up leaking through the bushing where the impeller shaft goes through. Cheap ass bav auto crap!
            This happens, regardless of the manufacturer.
            No E30 Club
            Originally posted by MrBurgundy
            Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

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              #7
              I hope all u guys are right, that its not coming from the one of the blind holes that have been damaged due to the longer fastener being torqued down. I plan tomorrow to pull it all down then reinstall the hoses and coolant and pump up the system to confirm leak location. I then plan to put a new seal on the new graf waterpump from pelican that appears to be flat as does the block. The block is also completely clean before installation. The friggin thing was leaking before I got at and the old pump was put on like 6months ago and didn't appear to be leaking at the weep hole either.

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                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                The leak can't be from one of the bolts, they thread into blind holes in the block. Either the new pump is bad or it isn't making a seal to the block. It could be that the surface of the block wasn't cleaned well enough or is corroded, the gasket got damaged during installation, the pump flange isn't flat, or the pump seal is bad.
                Originally posted by vert_this View Post
                I hope all u guys are right, that its not coming from the one of the blind holes that have been damaged due to the longer fastener being torqued down.
                It could be from the blind holes, as on some cars the bolt holes DO sink into the coolant cavity. I was in in a big argument once with a guy who said one or two of the bolts ALWAYS sinks into the coolant area, and that you have to seal the bolts or it would leak. Having done my own M20 timing belt and water pump a half dozen times, I knew mine did not.

                The argument ended a year later when I changed the timing belt on my Dad's ix. I could NOT keep it from leaking. I pulled it three times. Finally, I remembered the disagreement and took a thin piece of wire and stuck it up one of the bolt holes, about 12 inches
                I stuck some thread sealer on all the bolts and buttoned it back up again. Not a single drop now comes from that thing. It was only 12 hours of my life on a timing belt that I want back, no big deal...

                So, some M20's need their bolts sealed, some don't. If you don't know which your engine is, go ahead and seal them :)
                -------------------------------------------------
                1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
                2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

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                I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

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                  #9
                  I have a sealed up water pump. What I did was pull everything down aside from the hoses and the coolant. I pumped up the system and the leak was from the THERMOSTAT housing seal, where it bolts up to the block, what a pita. It was lightly pissing on the top edge of the water pump, I think I have it licked now though. I have not put it back together yet out of pure aggravation but I think that is the fix.

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                    #10
                    torque for those are 16lbs

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