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    Engine timing issue

    I am having trouble setting the timing on my m20. I got a 20k mile re-built 885 head from a seller on here, and everything looks great, except the head isnt set at TDC. The cam timing mark is 11 teeth to the left of the TDC mark and based on the position of the valves ( cyl # 5 and 6 have open valves) it would appear that the bottom end needs to be set at BDC. Anyone have a good idea how to set this properly??

    #2
    Do you know where the timing marks are? If the head is off setting the bottom end to TDC is easy as pie. Rotate till you see cylinder#1 piston is TDC.


    The Build:
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191125

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      #3
      The way you do this is to set the head timing (align the cam sprocket marks), turn the engine to align the the crank hub marks, and then install the head on the engine. If you install the head with it or the engine out of time it is almost impossible to get everything in time w/o bending a valve.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Yea I know all about that. My issue is that the timing mark on the cam sprocket is not aligned with the timing mark on the head casting.

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          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          The way you do this is to set the head timing (align the cam sprocket marks), turn the engine to align the the crank hub marks, and then install the head on the engine. If you install the head with it or the engine out of time it is almost impossible to get everything in time w/o bending a valve.
          Is there any way to set the head timing with if off the block? I cant rotate it as its just sitting on the bench.

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            #6
            Originally posted by thatguyMatt View Post
            Is there any way to set the head timing with if off the block? I cant rotate it as its just sitting on the bench.
            yes but you need an inverted torque socket that fits the bolt on the front of the cam. its easy to rotate it till the mark on the sprocket lines up with the line on the head casing.

            The Build:
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=191125

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              #7
              Originally posted by ttrousdell View Post
              yes but you need an inverted torque socket that fits the bolt on the front of the cam. its easy to rotate it till the mark on the sprocket lines up with the line on the head casing.
              I didnt know that was there, although I didnt look to hard for one. Do you need to remove the rotor base to access it?

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                #8
                Originally posted by thatguyMatt View Post
                Is there any way to set the head timing with if off the block? I cant rotate it as its just sitting on the bench.
                Sure you can. A strap wrench is the preferred tool, but it can be done by padding the jaws of a large (24") pair of channel locks.

                Note that if you fully installed the head and then found the timing error you will need another set of head bolts and another gasket. When installing the head, only run the head bolts up to their initial torque (22ft-lb). Then install the timing belt, intake, exhaust, etc., and check timing by rotating the engine through two revolutions before angle torquing the head bolts. If the head has to come back off for any reason before final torque of the head bolts the gasket and bolts can still be used.
                Last edited by jlevie; 05-12-2012, 02:43 PM.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                  Sure you can. A strap wrench is the preferred tool, but it can be done by padding the jaws of a large (24") pair of channel locks.

                  Note that if you fully installed the head and then found the timing error you will need another set of head bolts and another gasket. When installing the head, only run the head bolts up to their initial torque (22ft-lb). Then install the timing belt, intake, exhaust, etc., and check timing by rotating the engine through two revolutions before angle torquing the head bolts. If the head has to come back off for any reason before final torque of the head bolts the gasket and bolts can still be used.
                  That is why I didnt want to go with the trial and error method, I dont want to order more parts. :) Ill check it out tonight after work. If I can use a torx to rotate it that would be fantastic. I will report back with results. :)

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                    #10
                    Ok so I feel like a major idiot. The torx bolt on the from of the cam pulley is pretty easy to see once you look. I dont know why I didnt see it before, just a stupid overlook on my part. Thanks for reminding me to keep it simple guys. :)

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