My car cant go to GFest now!! (Fuel Pressure Issue)

[Kozworth]

Car: 88 325is

Parts replaced recently: fuel filter, fpr

Idle: around 600 when its cold out, 700-750 when warm..

As of today the car has been weird. For example, I did notice a little iffy idle this morning going to work, but in a rush I didn't examine it. When I turned off my car, the tach dropped from 1k-0 and then a second or so later heard the engine cut off. A little weird I thought.

I tried to move my car, but the car basically started and went to 500 rpm then died. I figured it was my fuel pump since the damn thing has been whining for the past 5-6 months..

I got a donor pump from Brezzi (thanks!!) and the car fired right up.. basically to 2.2k rpm, down to 1.8k rpm back and forth.. slowly died down and then would die out. When it went down to 1k it sounded like it needed a valve adjustment really bad. The fuel pump sometimes sounded like it was sucking in air, but I had a little over 1/4 tank.

Now the car idles at around 1k ish, still very stumby and such. I havent seen any gas around the pump/ground. When i hit the gas with the clutch in or neutral, it revs pretty high (3k ish) and would stumble. When in gear, I can hardly get the car to move.

I drove home 3-4 miles by holding in the clutch, revving, letting go, about every 5-10 feet. Poor Clutch!! But I cant leave the car overnight or offord a tow.

To me, it seems like the fuel pressure isnt steady enough to spray into the engine. I was touching around the c191 connector but didnt remove it. I am going to basically jump the fp relay, try removing the sock at the bottom of the fp incase its restrictive, and rechecking the c191.

Help me get to Gutenfest!! I somehow swung getting off sunday from work at the last minute, and then my 8month straight daily pulls this!

[JinormusJ]

Poor Adam























Sucks man.. I just got off Saturday for B-Fest and my tire flew off going home the other day. Nothing as bad as this, and definitely fixable as the only damage I had was losing a tire and destroying my rotor..

Good Luck!

[Kozworth]

I jumped the relay and it had worked once. Seemed to improve a slight bit.

Now I have a paperclip in place of the wire (gauge was too big) and nothing. #11 fuse is good. I am afraid somehow now that some wiring somewhere is bad, time to break out the dmm.

So I found that I had battery voltage from prong 30 to ground. I had my sister try to start the car when I followed the bentley, which said i should have 12v from the two prongs that you jump. The car started. I replaced the fuse, and the car fired right up, perfectly. I drove half down my road, it pulled the best its ever ran, very strong. Then when I got into my driveway I reved it to see how it returned to idle (which was about 650 at this time) and it just shut off.

Now it just cranks, and even jumping doesnt set the pump.. It doesnt spark like when it normally does. I rechecked the 11 fuse which was good before, and now its shot. Replaced, I got it to start up weakly, and recheck to a popped fuse..

Not totally sure whats going on. Everytime I try something a different result occurs

[jlevie]

You may have a fuel system problem, but the lack of spark when cranking says that:

The DME isn't getting timing data from the engine (bad CPS or engine harness)
The DME has a power or ground problem (bad main relay or bad fusible link)
The DME isn't getting a START signal (bad ignition switch or wiring fault)
The DME is bad
The coil isn't working (no coil power or no connection to the DME)

The first four of those will result in the fuel pump not running when the engine is turning.

[Kozworth]

You may have a fuel system problem, but the lack of spark when cranking says that:

The DME isn't getting timing data from the engine (bad CPS or engine harness)
The DME has a power or ground problem (bad main relay or bad fusible link)
The DME isn't getting a START signal (bad ignition switch or wiring fault)
The DME is bad
The coil isn't working (no coil power or no connection to the DME)

The first four of those will result in the fuel pump not running when the engine is turning.

What are the odds though, that i would have a few rough starts the past week or so, and then get nothing. And then when I swap pumps, It starts up but idles funky.

And that the fact that I didnt have continuity with the jumper. I literally (s@#t you not) closed my passenger door and then the pump decided to get continuity.

Also, I drove the car and it was driving 10% better then usual, and when i rev it, it dies and decides to start popping fuses.

For example:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=195470

When the jumper didnt work, it could have been:
1)blown 11 fuse
2)connection at the pump

But, if the fuse is popping, it would need an increase in amperage. So an increase of amperage means a decrease in resistance, so I would assume the popping of fuses (in theory that everything pre fuse is working as it should) would be due to a short before the pump? Without grounding after the pump, the resistance would acutally be lower, so thus increasing amperage and popping the fuse?

I understand that spark could be a factor, but eithor way I am having issues w/ this fuse and that should be resolved. If it fixes my issue, great, if not, one less thing to worry about.