Frozen/Stuck Cap

[SlamedIAm]

I've been having some missing/hesitation issues so I went to take a look at the cap/rotor. First thing I noticed was the write ups I read stated the three 8mm bolts don't fully unscrew/separate from the cap, but these did. With the three bolts completely removed and both black plastic covers removed the cap did not budge or move at all.

After speaking to a buddy here we agreed I should wait until I have new parts in hand before trying to remove this as it might not survive. Any experience with this guys? I figured I could pry it off with something but I'm curious if there are any specific points it might be caught up on or just anything I should know before I get myself involved with this.

[jlevie]

The cap may be stuck on the o-ring. But I doubt that is your problem. Hesitation issues are most commonly caused by intake leaks, a fuel system problem, or a bad AFM. The usual fault associated with the distributor (or plugs or wires) is misfires.

[SlamedIAm]

The cap may be stuck on the o-ring. But I doubt that is your problem. Hesitation issues are most commonly caused by intake leaks, a fuel system problem, or a bad AFM. The usual fault associated with the distributor (or plugs or wires) is misfires.

I've had some misfires as well. The whole fuel system has been replaced in the past 6-7 months (tank, lines, filter, pump, fpr) and I've swapped AFM's with a "known good" part to no avail. I haven't been able to find a place to smoke test yet. I've been to 4 stores looking for a fuel pressure tester as well. One store had it but it was missing a necessary fitting. The other 3 didn't rent it. I believe I tracked one down that I'll be trying out this weekend so hopefully I can definitively rule out the fuel system.

To be honest the entire engine is a turd and I can't wait to replace the whole thing I just need it to get me through this year of grad school so I can do it right. I just wanted to take a look at the cap and see what was going on with it.

Surprisingly my failed attempt at removing it has caused my econometer to begin working for the first time since I've owned the car.

[jlevie]

While a bad distributor/rotor can result in misfires, wrong or bad plugs or aged ignition wires are more likely causes of ignition related misfires. Figure on about a 10yr 100k life for the wires. But then intake leaks will also cause misfires (and hesitation off idle). You really need to find a place that can run a smoke test.

An inexpensive fuel pressure gauge can be cobbled up with parts from Lowes, Home Depo, etc. A 0-60 psi gauge, a tee, a couple of hose barbs and a bit of fuel injection hose will do the trick. You really should have 5/16" hose barbs, but those may be hard to find. 1/4" barbs will work.