refreshed engine won't start

[tytypetersen]

Bought a 89 325iC (production 10/88) that wasn’t running due to a blown head gasket and water pump failure 195,000 miles. Pulled the engine and transmission and replaced/did the following:

• Head pulled cleaned, shaved and tested
• New Head gasket (thicker one)
• New Head Torx Bolts
• New Oil Pan Gasket
• New Water Pump
• New Timing Belt and Tensioner
• New Water Temp Sensors
• New Oil Sensor
• New Intake Manifold and Exhaust Gaskets
• New Radiator
• New Thermostat
• All New Radiator/Heater Hoses
• New Motor and Transmission Mounts, Guibo
• New Engine Bay Fuel Lines
• New Fuel Filter
• New Belts
• New Spark Plugs
• New O2 Sensor
• New Fan Clutch and Fan
• New Freeze Plugs
• New Distributor and Rotor
• Injectors Cleaned and Flow Matched
• Drained and replaced the gas (been sitting for 8 months)

Didn’t touch the lower engine-looked OK. Cleaned it and put it all back together and it started and ran for a few seconds, died and won’t start again. We have another E30 so we’ve swapped the following for testing purposes.

• Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Air Flow Sensor
• Relays
• Idle Air Stabilizer Valve

It gets gas, there is a spark on the plugs. Double and triple checked all of the plugs and compared them to the other E30. Ran the Motronic DME (Stomp Test) and came back as 1444 – no errors. Checked that the fuel lines were not switched (did that before). Checked the timing belt position TDC for both the Cam and the Shaft (was few notched off when I opened it up initially)

Any ideas as to how to proceed would be appreciated. We’re learning as we go. Thanks

[FLG]

Assuming your timing is good, you should start.

You said you have spark? Is it a good "blue" spark, not orange.

Could also be a bad ECU

How did it run when you did get it started?

[UserError]

If you're getting fuel and spark, you should do a dry and wet compression test, to see if the engine's working correctly. If you have compression, then there's a possibility that the crank position sensor or DME are bad. On the i motors, the crank sensor is on the front of the motor, just in case you weren't sure.

[paperplane94]

The feed goes on the rail and the return goes on the FPR.

True or false?

What exactly happens if you crank it over? Tried starting fluid yet?

And because you are a new member, Welcome!

[tytypetersen]

New timing belt is right on. Both the cam and the crank were TDC. The old belt was off a tooth or two.

Spark is Blue....just checked it.

Ran for about 5 seconds the one time. It almost catches now but doesn't.

I should be able to swap the ECU with our other E30. Realoem says the ECU is the same for both.

Possible it could be the Pulse Sensor? I didn't replace it.
Thanks

[tytypetersen]

True - feed on the rail and return on the FPR

It turns over and will almost catch for a second. Try a few times more and then it just cranks. Take out a SP and they're wet with gas. Haven't tried starting fluid-not sure how to do that.

[FLG]

ECU will swap fine, as long as its motronic 1.1 or 1.3 (there both interchangeable)

Could be the CPS sensor but generally you wont get spark/fuel if it was bad.

To test unplug the CPS sensor and take a multi meter and test the continuity between terminal 1 and 2 (plug going to sensor, not going to ECU), should be around 540 ohms IIRC

[paperplane94]

Hopefully you didn't bend a valve due to the timing being off. Might want to consider a compression test as mentioned above.

[5Toes]

Got gas?

Add a gallon to the tank

[tytypetersen]

Drained the gas that had been in the tank for 8 months and added fresh when I changed the fuel lines and filter.

Crankshaft position sensor test @ 545 ohms so it looks good. Haven't had a chance to swap the motronic yet. Haven't checked the compression yet-got to get a compression tester.

[amok]

I'm having the exact same problem. Just rebuilt the hae as well. This is pretty frustrating. Ecu is good and tested. Guess i gotta run a compression test now.

[dnguyen1963]

Are your injectors 17 or 19#? Did you check for fuel pressure?

[amok]

Ok. I had the exact same issues as yours and fixed it just now. Pretty dumb of me but the wirig harness for my injectors weren't fully tight and locked. That's the round plug. The bracket was preventing it from screwing in all the way.

Check yours and let me know.

[dustyperez]

anyone come up with anything? i am having the same issue after a refresh. i have fuel coming out of fpr and my cps is good. everything is new. and idk what the deal is.

[JCarp90]

Switch your CPS and whatever the other connector is right beside it. I got them switched when I put my new motor in.