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    m20 rebuild

    Hi guys. I just bought a 1990 325IX 4 door last week. Im getting ready to be pulling my m20 here in a few weeks. The car leaks oil from what seems like every gasket on it. So I'm planning on doing a full gasket replace, heres the list of things Im gonna replace while I'm in there.

    All engine gaskets
    coil
    spark plugs+wires
    cap+rotor
    alt belt
    oil change
    coolant flush.

    The parts that have recently been replaced on the engine includes
    coolant hoses
    air filter
    the timing belt+water pump was just done 2k miles ago by the PO but while I have it taken apart I might as well replace at least the timing belt.

    The question, is there anything you guys would recommend replacing while I have the engine out or looking at to see if it does need replaced. I just want some second opinions before I miss something when I do it.

    Also Im looking for some new injectors too since mine tick worse than a diesel. If anyone has any for sale or even upgrades pm me.

    thanks guys

    #2
    the thermostat might need replacing for piece of mind if i was you.

    and youve already said your going to do the gaskets, dont forget orings and oil seals like front and rear mains. im not sure if you had thought of those yet or ment that when you said gaskets.

    and make sure the water pump is accually new. and its a goos idea to do the tbelt for the hell of it anyway.

    and if you want to go nuts, do the valve stem seals and HG. also gives you a chance to see the condition of the engines internals

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      #3
      Front and rear main seals. Cam seal too.

      Comment


        #4
        I will add those to my list. Im also doing a power steering delete and A/C delete. Power steering lines leak and with awd I'm sure steering wont be a big issue.

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          #5
          It's a good time to do the clutch master and slave cylinder while you have the engine out, they're easier to get to especially the clutch master cylinder.

          Also depending on the condition you should consider doing the clutch and throw out bearing etc. while you have it out, no sense pulling the trans later on if the stuff looks worn now.

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            #6
            Originally posted by KillaCams View Post
            It's a good time to do the clutch master and slave cylinder while you have the engine out, they're easier to get to especially the clutch master cylinder.

            Also depending on the condition you should consider doing the clutch and throw out bearing etc. while you have it out, no sense pulling the trans later on if the stuff looks worn now.
            Master cylinder is easy with the motor in. So is the slave.

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              #7
              Even after replacement your cam seal might still leak. The rear main seal may also leak with new seal, caused by the worn surface area on the crank. You can by a thin sleeve that goes over the portion of the crank the seal contacts to prevent a leak happening. I am not sure if they make a sleeve for the cam,so you might be stuck with it leaking a little.
              :borg:

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                #8
                Rings and bearings.

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                  #9
                  Make sure you pick the right gaskets especially the head gasket, several threads reccomending going with the BMW OEM gasket vs aftermarket. I just did mine using the Victor Reinz kit and that now seems like a bad choice. Wish I had read more before. Now I'm on pins and needles and would have gladly spent more had I known there was a difference. Good luck!
                  Last edited by canuck; 08-18-2012, 06:21 PM.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by canuck View Post
                    Make sure you pick the right gaskets especially the head gasket, several threads reccomending going with the BMW OEM gasket vs aftermarket. I just did mine using the Victor Reinz kit and that now seems like a bad choice. Wish I had read more before.
                    Don't believe everything you read on the internet.
                    ADAMS Autosport

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                      #11
                      Do a compression test before you do anything, to find out what condition the rings are in.

                      Reason being, as stated before, if your compression is low it couldn't hurt to do a hone and throw in new rings/rod and main bearings. Just be sure to take lot's of measurements to be sure everything is in spec.
                      No E30 Club
                      Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                      Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

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                        #12
                        Hehe - sure hope you're right. Some of the threads seemed pretty convincing. Either way I'll be keeping a close eye on mine.

                        Originally posted by SkiFree View Post
                        Don't believe everything you read on the internet.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by canuck View Post
                          Hehe - sure hope you're right. Some of the threads seemed pretty convincing. Either way I'll be keeping a close eye on mine.
                          Here's some "convincing" from the other side of the camp.
                          ADAMS Autosport

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