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2.7 swap wont start, Fuel pump fuse???

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    2.7 swap wont start, Fuel pump fuse???

    I'm having some problems starting my 2.7 I swap. I have an 86 325 with the DME and head from a 90 Automatic and the wiring harness from an 87 325 I. At this point I don't have fuel or cranking occurring.

    I did some searching and found the below document on this site. I have ran through it and would like to post my findings in red below for any and all to help. Thanks in advance
    ******************************************
    For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

    Power on DME pins:
    27 Start Input (No Power)
    18 Un-switched Power input
    37 Power Input from Main Relay

    Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

    Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine. Did not check

    To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

    To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the injectors is controlled by the main relay. Injector firing is best checked with a noid light.

    The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse 11.

    The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and DME.

    Troubleshooting:

    Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

    1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.could not perform the open cct test as i did not know how.

    2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to 540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.Unable to perform as did not know how

    3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel pump relay 85. Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
    following checks:

    1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay 86 & 30.

    2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27(No power) and pin 18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the injectors and fuel pump relay.

    3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2, 14, 19, 24).

    4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive (No power) and at fuel pump relay pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

    The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

    IMPORTANT:

    A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what you measure across the battery terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a charged battery.

    A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

    An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

    A good quality auto-ranging digital multimeter will make these tests much
    easier.
    Last edited by Smrtpunk; 08-22-2012, 04:17 AM.

    #2
    I'll that you don't have a START input to the DME because the START/tach/econmeter connector off the wiring harness near the DME connector doesn't have anything plugged into it. It is a white three pin connector.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      Well, I got it to crank today... Silly me in the process of changing out the starter, I forgot to re-hook the C104 connector :roll eyes:

      However, even with the crank there is still no fuel. DME 27 now has a signal when turning the key to the on position.

      I checked the Fuel Pump relay and I not exactly sure what this text means,

      The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse 11.

      I don't think I'm getting this situation, as I'm fairly certain that with the key on its attempting a ground but the two pins to the left and the right have no power, I believe 86 and 87, not too sure though as I failed to note them down . How do the relays work do they themselves power those pins once the ground is delivered? what is the scenario that should be occurring with the Fuel Pump relay? I've tried another relay but still had the same result.

      Anyways the car still doesn't really have everything hooked up , rad filled, engine oil filled so I will get all that finished within the next few days and report back with a status update.

      Thanks for your help Jlevie!

      Ian

      Comment


        #4
        Fuel Pump fuse

        recently, I've read that here that in order to complete the E ti I swap I need to swap out the Fuel Pump fuse with a 30 amp fuse... Is this true? If so what fuse do I swap?

        This could be why my fuel pump wont start.

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