Won't start after new rebuild

[Greilly]

I need some advice. I had a blown head gasket, so I tore it all down had the head freshened up, and put it all back together today. The starter turns over the engine but I get no ignition. I have spark, and compression, but when I pull out the plugs they are dry, so I suspect that I have some sort of issue with the electronics related to the fuel delivery. I've checked the fuel flow up to the regulator, and there is fuel getting to the regulator. All the conectors seem to be hooked up properly. I installed a new rotor and distributor cap. I reused the wires, and made sure to attach all the ignition wires to the correct terminals. But I was wondering if perhaps the timing could be out of whack. It is a 1990 model so I think it has the most modern electronic system. Like I said, I suspect it is electrical/fuel system. What do you think?

[jlevie]

Fuel flows out of the FPR, not into it. You have the hoses swapped.

[Greilly]

Thanks. I'm pretty sure I have the hoses attached in their original positions. I labeled them on disassembly for that reason. When I removed the center hose to check flow I had my wife hit the ignition and fuel spat out of the regulator, so that led me to conclude that fuel was getting that far. If we assume the hoses are correct, what else could it be?

[Greilly]

Just adding a little more info. The car was running prior to the tear down, when I removed the plenum I did not separate the fuel rail, I just took it out as a unit. However, while I had it out I spent a lot of time cleaning out the injectors using a tooth brush and list of carb cleaner, I didn't poke around the actual fuel nozzles, but did use a dental tool to remove the crud built up around the edges. I spent a lot of time, and made sure to be very careful not to scrape the injectors themselves. So I don't think I hurt the injectors. I have not removed the regulator to see if the fuel rail is full gas, but I plan to do that tomorrow. I'm sticking with my theory that it is electrical in nature not mechanical. Any more ideas for things I can check?

[jlevie]

If fuel flows out of the FPR when cranking the hoses are correct. Is this car an 88 or later? If so check C191 under the intake. The injector signal run through that connector.

[Mr. Burns]

don't laugh, but check your gas tank.
literally pull the pump out and see if theres any fuel in there.

I was stuck in your position after I realized my sensor bit it, and I kept cranking with no result untill I threw some gas in her.
a whole week of freaking the f'kout.

[Greilly]

Thanks, the car is a 1990. What is at the c191. Is tha the throttle position sensor? The connector at the bottom of the the throttle body that works off of the butterfly shaft passing though the body. I took this out when cleaning the throttle body. It looked pretty good, so all I did was clean it up a bit and reinstall it. Once the screws were loose, I could pivot the sensor on it's axis, and it clicked. I assumed this was a normal mechanical click telling me the unit is healthy. I'll check the connection and and inspect the wires as well.

And yes, I will check the gas in the tank. The front end is still up on ramps, so the incline may be making it hard for fuel to make it up to the engine. It also made me wonder if the incline could be preventing fuel from flowing to the end of the fuel rail. Could there be an air lock in there preventing fuel getting in?

[jlevie]

C191 is a round connector, ~1-1/14" in diameter, and is below the intake manifold. The injectors and temp sensor wiring pass through C191 to the engine harness. If it isn't connected (or is damaged) the injectors won't fire.