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NEED MAJOR ASSISTANCE! Everything is right...except one thing; help me brainstorm!

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    NEED MAJOR ASSISTANCE! Everything is right...except one thing; help me brainstorm!

    As the title states, I'm in need of some help! I'm going to go through the whole process of what I've done on the car, how it was when I got it and the progression I've made...now I'm stumped as to what could be causing my issue(s) .

    My main issue on the car is that it will not accept full throttle; it bogs down and backfires. I've been tinkering with the car for the past month, made some serious progress, but still not 100% right...bear with me everyone, this may get lengthy, but I'd really appreciate a thorough read and some thorough responses, if at all possible.

    I obtained the car about a month and a half ago; was told that the fuel pump was bad. So I started there...that didn't fix my issue; I was having to start the car by fooling the ecu (put my thumb on the ICV and plugging in the hose leading to it from the intake boot right as the car would crank). Yes, I've checked for vac leaks, inspected all of my hoses and connections. Here's a list of everything I replaced and what it "solved":

    valve cover gasket: did nothing
    In tank fuel pump: fixed nothing :???: car still wouldn't start, the one time it did, it shut right back off
    Fuel filter: ^^
    (both of these parts above ^^ were from advance auto)
    checked for spark and all 6 plugs were sparking normally
    ICV: fixed sporadic idle after start up; car still didn't start on it's own (came off of a lower miles '87)
    mass air flow meter: Again, idle was better, accepted slight throttle, but car still didn't start on it's own
    cold start valve: car would start but then shut off, eventually the car wouldn't even start on it's own; car wouldn't accept full throttle
    I suspected that the fuel pump wasn't putting out enough pressure, so I took back my advance auto pump and bought a used one out of a 1986 325es
    (the icv, mafm, csv, oil sensor, and fuel pump all came off of the same parts, a 1986 325es)
    At this point the car still wouldn't start on it's own..so I moved to the coolant sensors; I replaced every coolant sensor. The one that made the biggest difference was the coolant sensor with the two female connectors (not sure how to describe it, but it's the one on the very top of the thermostat housing with the two prongs sticking up...forgive me if that sounds ignorant :???:)
    The car would then start on it's own, but would run for a little then bog down and have an oddly low idle, but could be driven and started after about 3 times turning the car over.
    The next morning I went to start the car and it wouldn't start, I attempted to fool the ecu by doing my thumb trick on the icv..car still wouldn't start...eventually after about 20 minutes the car started but shook profusely! I shut it off and checked my SPARK PLUGS! They were completely, COMPLETELY gone...so I bought bosch replacements and the car started up and idled fine, but still wouldn't accept full throttle and would start on it's own consistently.
    From there I checked my ecu; there was slight corrosion, so I replaced it with an ecu out of another 1987 325e. The car started on its own some-what easier, but was still finicky while driving and wouldn't take to full throttle. If you ease slightly into the throttle the car revs up fine, but if you punch the throttle, it would bog down and shut off.
    Fuel pressure regulator: changed nothing
    Fuel rail and injectors: tried a different fuel rail and injectors; car wouldn't even start, so I went back to my fuel rail, cleaned my injectors, and replaced a few o-rings, and the car started up slightly easier than before, but still wouldn't take full throttle
    I then drilled a hole in my tps to allow oil to allow for oil to drain out and cleaned it with brake cleaner...that helped my idle slightly, but nothing else.

    Here's a brief recap of everything I had done up until tonight so we (I) don't get lost in my own thoughts: icv, mafm, csv, drilled a hole in the tps, all coolant sensors, valve cover gasket, injectors, injector o-rings, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel sender, fuel filter, spark plugs, checked for spark, and changed ecu.

    Tonight I went to my buddy's shop tonight and we searched, did "diagnostics", checked this checked that for roughly 7 hours...got the car running damn near perfect, but it still won't take to full throttle. Here's what we did tonight:

    oil was leaking out of the oil sensor, so we replaced that.
    checked the distributor and plug wires (mine look near brand new, so we didn't think that's what was causing my issue, but checked it anyways).
    checked again for leaks.
    now here's the really funny part, when I would attempt to give the car full throttle before, it would bog down and you would smell gas (making me think that it's getting flooded). We changed the throttle position sensor (since I only drilled a hole in my old one and cleaned it, I didn't try a different one until tonight); put the new tps on, started the car, and it took full throttle twice in a row, then started doing the normal issue...bogging down if you punch the gas....we then realized that I had forgotten to plug in the tps, so I plugged it in, which fixed nothing, but we noticed that rather than smelling gas when the car bogged down, it smelled like exhaust.
    At this point the car would just bog down but not shut of like it usually would when attempting full throttle..odd right?
    I checked the power to my out of tank fuel pump, it was working fine..
    Then checked the crank position sensor...my connector was cracked, so we took it off and replaced it off of the same '86 parts car described earlier...that didn't help much due to the fact that that crank sensor was in about the same condition as mine (with the exception of a "not as bad" cracked connector).
    Took apart the old tps to see how the inside works, then adjusted my throttle cable with the new tps to where you can here the little sensor inside "click" when the throttle is at resting no throttle position.
    After tonight the car starts fine, idles fine, drives fine, but you can't punch the throttle...you can ease into the throttle and the car is fine, but if you put the pedal to the floor quickly the car buckles down, yet doesn't shut off...

    I'm thinking I still need to replace both of my crank senors (I know one is a crank sensor, not sure what the other is); after that I'm at a complete and utter loss as to what could be causing this issue. The motor sounds healthy as can be, no smoking, no odd ticking or clunking, etc. It's been maintained throughout it's life (I've got a folder full of service records dating back to 1987). Any and all insight will be appreciated! I'd really like to get this thing figured out!

    Thanks in advance,
    -Ted
    Last edited by e30TED; 09-23-2012, 02:12 AM.


    #2
    If replacing the 2 sensors doesnt work, maybe check if there is rust in the tank that might be clogging the fuel lines. That seems to be a common problem.My brother had a pretty similar problem and we found a few chunks of rust debris in his lines. Removing the blockage helped clear it up. If you hadnt already replaced the fuel filter, i would say that sounds like a clogged fuel filter.
    89 325i Coupe Auto Delphin Metallic - Sold
    91 325i Sedan Auto Brilliantrot - Sold
    83 323i Euro Coupe Manual Lapisblue - Sold
    89 325i Coupe Manual Delphin - Sold
    89 325i Sedan Auto Brilliantrot
    87 325i Vert Manual Brilliantrot

    Comment


      #3
      Have you checked you replaced oxygen sensor. Does the "bogging down happen once its reached temperature? Had that issue with my car surging under acceleration when warm but fine for the first 2 minutes of driving from a cold start.
      Originally posted by MR 325
      A noisy M20 is a happy M20.

      Comment


        #4
        If I understand correctly, you've replaced only the in-tank pump. The high pressure pump could be bad. Monitor rail fuel pressure to find out. And check the cold start valve to see if it is leaking.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          If you flooded the engine every time you stomp on the gas then I would check to see if your car has 19# injectors. These injectors can cause many problems when using with stock chip. Replace then with 17# injectors to see if that helps with your problem.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by markt51 View Post
            If replacing the 2 sensors doesnt work, maybe check if there is rust in the tank that might be clogging the fuel lines. That seems to be a common problem.My brother had a pretty similar problem and we found a few chunks of rust debris in his lines. Removing the blockage helped clear it up. If you hadnt already replaced the fuel filter, i would say that sounds like a clogged fuel filter.
            Still haven't replaced the 2 sensors with better condition ones; trying to locate some. The guy I got the car from sea foamed it prior to him driving it.

            Originally posted by Big Unit View Post
            Have you checked you replaced oxygen sensor. Does the "bogging down happen once its reached temperature? Had that issue with my car surging under acceleration when warm but fine for the first 2 minutes of driving from a cold start.
            Have not checked my o2 sensors...my cel will flash when you start the car but then go off. The bogging down happens regardless the temperature of the vehicle.

            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            If I understand correctly, you've replaced only the in-tank pump. The high pressure pump could be bad. Monitor rail fuel pressure to find out. And check the cold start valve to see if it is leaking.
            Fuel rail pressure seems to be fine, cold start valve has been cleaned and replaced, and we put power to the secondary (high pressure pump) and it sounded as if it were working properly.

            Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
            If you flooded the engine every time you stomp on the gas then I would check to see if your car has 19# injectors. These injectors can cause many problems when using with stock chip. Replace then with 17# injectors to see if that helps with your problem.
            Interesting...is there any way to determine my type of injectors? My current injectors are blue; I'll post a picture of them.


            **quick update; I slowly eased into full throttle in 5th gear the other day on the interstate, the car would accept full throttle when you slowly reach that point. Also, today on the way home I punched the throttle in 4th gear, 3 times in a row and the car accepted full throttle, so I down shifted to third to try it again, and the car bogged down, then wouldn't even take full throttle in any gear (as usual). I'm still at a loss guys...:(

            Comment


              #7
              Read through a few of your posts. couple things to try-

              Verify fuel pressure. borrow a fuel pressure guage, and t it into the fuel hose that supplies the rail and the cold enrichment injector. Hell, at this point find a mobile mechanic and pay the guy to swing by and check it for peace of mind and elimination.

              Check or swap the ignition coil, weak spark can fool you. Also, while youre at it, check the spark plugs for fouling. A failing fuel pump causes lean running, lean running cooks things through temp and unspent voltage. Also, that car has two fuel pumps- an intank lift pump, and the main pressure pump, just in front of the left rear wheel.

              Make sure the air flow meter isnt an I version, as output voltage is different, Eta versus I.

              Check your crank sensors, one is crank sensor, the second is a cylinder reference sensor. Also, check the trigger pins that are mounted (pressed into) the flywheel, see if youre missing one or the other. If the trigger pins are an issue, you may see damage at the tips of the crank sensors.

              Also, maybe swap in a fresh set of main and fuel pump relays, those cause headaches sometimes.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by gt88 View Post
                Read through a few of your posts. couple things to try-

                Verify fuel pressure. borrow a fuel pressure guage, and t it into the fuel hose that supplies the rail and the cold enrichment injector. Hell, at this point find a mobile mechanic and pay the guy to swing by and check it for peace of mind and elimination.

                Check or swap the ignition coil, weak spark can fool you. Also, while youre at it, check the spark plugs for fouling. A failing fuel pump causes lean running, lean running cooks things through temp and unspent voltage. Also, that car has two fuel pumps- an intank lift pump, and the main pressure pump, just in front of the left rear wheel.

                Make sure the air flow meter isnt an I version, as output voltage is different, Eta versus I.

                Check your crank sensors, one is crank sensor, the second is a cylinder reference sensor. Also, check the trigger pins that are mounted (pressed into) the flywheel, see if youre missing one or the other. If the trigger pins are an issue, you may see damage at the tips of the crank sensors.

                Also, maybe swap in a fresh set of main and fuel pump relays, those cause headaches sometimes.
                Thanks for the reply! All of that will be done; will update you on what I find.

                **another update...so I pull into my drive way, shut the car off, run inside, come back and go to start it up and leave again...car won't even start...won't even crank. I thought it was a dead battery, nope...all indicator lights come on. All I hear when I turn the key is a little click and a small drone..

                Comment


                  #9
                  Is your car a stick, or automatic?

                  Sounds like a starter issue, or a neutral safety switch, or possibly the electonic portion of the keyed ignition switch.

                  With all the luck youve had with this car, you may want to appease whatever gods youve offended!!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gt88 View Post
                    Is your car a stick, or automatic?

                    Sounds like a starter issue, or a neutral safety switch, or possibly the electonic portion of the keyed ignition switch.

                    With all the luck youve had with this car, you may want to appease whatever gods youve offended!!!

                    I'm thinking started as well...and it's a stick shift.
                    Lmao as far as the appeasement; I try to keep my slate clean ;) hahah

                    Comment


                      #11
                      **update starter has been replaced. car starts up great now, no issues, but still won't take sudden full throttle. I went rather quick into the throttle in third gear the other day, no problems, tried it again and she bogged as usual...?

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                        #12
                        Mine was bogging like that - turned out it was running too rich at idle. It would really do the bogging when first starting out. It was almost like it was on the boarder-line of flooding at idle. Would cause it to shake a bit too.

                        Went to the MAF and turned the idle screw counter clockwise a bunch of times . . . that let more air in at idle so that the mixture was right. Now it idles great and reacts to throttle without hesitation.

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                          #13
                          I had an eta do that, it's probably the reference sensors. Replace with new ones.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            **another update. Traded the car for a custom built bobber motorcycle to a buddy of mine...the day after he got it he cleaned the maf, icv, and one of the coolant reference sensore with carb cleaner and the car is running like a champ now, which bewilders me seeing as I replaced all of those, but hey, it's all good.

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