'88 325is M20 - died at idle, now cranks but no start

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 2
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 template Next
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530
    #16
    Does the coil positive still nat have system voltage on it? If so that is the first problem to solve.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment

      • randomsv650
        Mod Crazy
        • Jul 2011
        • 614
        #17
        Originally posted by jlevie
        Does the coil positive still nat have system voltage on it? If so that is the first problem to solve.
        Didnt even think to test that again, duh. I'll try that and report back. Thanks!
        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          Comment

          • randomsv650
            Mod Crazy
            • Jul 2011
            • 614
            #18
            Originally posted by jlevie
            Does the coil positive still nat have system voltage on it? If so that is the first problem to solve.
            OK, so with the new coil im getting the same readings.

            When key is on, testing from the main lead on the coil to a ground on the car, it's showing approx 8v. When i crank the car over to start, it still drops to approx 4v.

            Should i be looking at the ignition switch?
            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

              Comment

              • randomsv650
                Mod Crazy
                • Jul 2011
                • 614
                #19
                Ah! So a friend told me to check the inline fuse coming from the battery (in trunck). Apparently this controls both spark and fuel? Anyways, it's blown. Guessing this must be the culprit. Pic for reference if anyone else is in the same boat. Didnt solve my issue, though, so im guessing i did something to blow the fuse

                Slit the wrap around the twi wires and the fuse is underneath. Then there's a little plastic cover over the fuse itself that you need to peel off, and this is what i found:

                Last edited by randomsv650; 11-04-2012, 01:37 PM.
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                  Comment

                  • jlevie
                    R3V OG
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 13530
                    #20
                    The engine management system has experienced a short or has a short in it now. But you still have another problem. Power to the coil comes from the ignition switch and that in turn is powered by the large battery cable. The blow fusible link has nothing to to do with the lack of power to the coil.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                      Comment

                      • randomsv650
                        Mod Crazy
                        • Jul 2011
                        • 614
                        #21
                        Originally posted by jlevie
                        The engine management system has experienced a short or has a short in it now. But you still have another problem. Power to the coil comes from the ignition switch and that in turn is powered by the large battery cable. The blow fusible link has nothing to to do with the lack of power to the coil.
                        Right, not sure where the short occurrde but i replaced the in line 50 amp fuse so thats good for now. Just need to figure why im not getting 12v to the coil still.
                        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                          Comment

                          Previous 1 2 template Next
                          Working...