MLS gasket questions:

[F34R]

Ok, so here is my issue right now...

I have heard from a few people to use the copper gasket spray on the MLS.
But when reading about prepping the block they say NOT to use it. As it will ruin the factory .001" rubber sealant. So I checked what the Cometic website says...

"Why does Cometic recommend MLS gaskets to be installed dry?
Cometic Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick Viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket."

With that information from the direct manufacture, it makes me not want to remove the rivets and spray each layer like I was told to do.

I would like to know 100% as the person that told me to is Forced Firebird and he has a top end turbo and engine repair shop. I just want to know 100%

Currently my engine is tore down and I am hand block sanding the block in prep for the gasket.

[SkiFree]

Sorry, there is no cut and dry answer. I too say no spray, but still respect ForcedFirebirds position.

[Swanny]

Sounds like they're (manufacturer) referring to using any kind of sealant used externally. What it sounds like what you're doing is resealing the WHOLE gasket internally and externally.
So is there no sealant in between the layers from cosmetic? It seems like a safe bet to double up your protection especially with your plans down the road....and of you fuck it up you're still gunna take the majority of that shit off again whenever you boost it sooooo just becareful!

[F34R]

Sorry, there is no cut and dry answer. I too say no spray, but still respect ForcedFirebirds position.

I think I am going to go with his advice as I CANNOT get the block bare and to a machine shop to be milled. With the copper spray I believe it would make a perfect seal.

.001" is not alot at all.

[Danny]

Ditch the mls and oring the block and use an oem gasket.

[F34R]

Sounds like they're (manufacturer) referring to using any kind of sealant used externally. What it sounds like what you're doing is resealing the WHOLE gasket internally and externally.
So is there no sealant in between the layers from cosmetic? It seems like a safe bet to double up your protection especially with your plans down the road....and of you fuck it up you're still gunna take the majority of that shit off again whenever you boost it sooooo just becareful!

This is my very thoughts, the site says it is on the outside alone. So removing the rivets and spraying each layer and layering up on the ARP studs as a guide would be the best.

[sayed ali]

ditch the mls and oring the block and use an oem gasket.

+1

[F34R]

Ditch the mls and oring the block and use an oem gasket.

I would love to do that, but I don't have the money to rent the machine. I already own the MLS, and it will handle my goals with ease.

In the future with my 3.0 I will be doing an oring. Right now I am using what I own to get back on the road.

For now I am going to do what Forced said. I was just worried after reading what the website said.
But it would do nothing more than make a better seal.

[MR 325]

What makes you think you need a MLS gasket at all?

I'm running an OEM BMW gasket on my boosted M20.

[F34R]

What makes you think you need a MLS gasket at all?

I'm running an OEM BMW gasket on my boosted M20.

Bought it because Good & Tight told me to go that route when I was going to FI my m50. So all I did was buy another one and ARP for my m20 build. He built a m10 that runs down Vipers...so I went to him when I got the fever to go FI.

When I do my 3.0 m20 I want to do an Oring, only thing I am worried about is the wall thickness between the cylinders.

Long term I want to get 350 to the wheels. From the m20 turbo builds I have been researching they have been using MLS.