Back to the charging issue. So when I first got the car running I couldn't find the blue wire the went to the d+ - neg terminal on the alternator, somehow it went missing i remebered pulling of when i pulled my motor but I wasn't worried about that because I couldn't even drive my car because it wasn't insured and the fuel pump went out on me. So one day after I had got my new fuel pump installed I found the stupid wire hiding in the insulation of the red wire with the wire ripped and shorter in length like 6 inches , so I soldered a new wire in , and I installed the connections on my alternator , when I was finished I started the car all the lights on the cluster were on including my park brake that stayed lit when it was disengaged and went brighter when pulled . Also the battery light was on , (new battery) and the brake fuild , abs , brake lining light . I then went and accuired a rebuilt 85$ alternator I installed it and all the lights went off on the dash , thinking my car was charging I drove it around realized the cars lights going dim took it home , and turned it off and turned it back on , no start , so I charged the battery thinking maybe the alternator wasnt working because the battery was to low or something , so I drive over to orielly after it charged and I get my alternator tested , it' read 12.59 volts supposed to be 13-14 and the voltage regulator was only putting out 30 amps when it supposed to be putting out over 100 like 130 I believe
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M20 alternator charging issue I need help please
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Battery light turns on .
I ran a test light from the negitive cable
Aligator prong connected to negitive cable then I touched the test light to he negitive terminal and the light lit up so i might have a draw in the system somewhere
Originally posted by jlevie View PostDoes the battery/alternator warning light in the cluster turn on when the ignition is turned on? If it doesn't the alternator isn't going to charge as that light is the source of exciter power.
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Well you've had the alternator tested, and it failed, and the exciter circuit is okay. Unless there is a grounding problem at the alternator or between the engine and chassis, the new alternator is bad. Not an uncommon occurrence with the inexpensive generic reman units.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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check the exciter wire. i had a bad connection near the fuse box which I found after replacing a most likely good alternator. Oops.1997 540i/6 - stock
1985 325 - M50NV - Getrag 250 - 2.79 LSD - MS2/e -LC-1 - 750cc injectors - Blunttech Manifold - HX35 - AEM UEGO
1991 318i - M50NV - Getrag 240 - 4.10 open - e36 rack - Smileys - 55w 5000k HIDs
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Originally posted by e30m20TurbO7 View Postit' read 12.59 volts supposed to be 13-14 and the voltage regulator was only putting out 30 amps when it supposed to be putting out over 100 like 130 I believe
I got a reman once that was only putting out 12.6V - not enough to charge a battery, just enough to keep things running. I went through THREE units before I got a good one, which I still have.
Next time I'll just fix it myself - much less of a waste of time.
Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe
Originally posted by Top GearJust imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.
Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.
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hate due to lack of understanding is, well, stupid. e30 alternators aren't much different from 90% of the pre-ECU managed alternators out there - only the mounts are different.
Do you hate e30 alternator mounts?
Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe
Originally posted by Top GearJust imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.
Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.
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