Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

i need a step by step valve adjustment guide

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    i need a step by step valve adjustment guide

    can anyone help me with this please i have everything just dont know what valve to start with first
    sigpic

    #2
    This is what I do.
    I get a peice of paper and draw a rectangle. Then I lable 1-6 and an I on one side and an E on the other side on the long part of the rectangle. (IE a head diagram)
    Then remove valve cover. If you dont know how to do this give up now.
    Then I unplug the coil.
    Then with the valve cover off I look at which valves are off the cam. The cam lobes are tear shaped. The pointed part should be as far away IE 180Deg away from the rocker.
    Then with the feeler gauge I check to see if said valve is in need of adjustment.
    If it needs it I loosen the 10mm nut just enough to provide Resistance but free enough to move.
    The feeler gauge should go in with a lil effort and slide around with a lil resistance.
    You adjust the gap with the eccentric and by truing it up or down. Most like down IE towards the pistons if they are lose.
    Do all the vales that are off cam and mark them off off your diagram as you go.
    Then go bump the starter to rotate the cam around to expose other valves.
    Make sure no shit gets down in the head when you do this.
    Lather rinse and repeat till done.
    But valvle cover back on plug in coil wham bam thank ya mam.
    sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
    The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

    Comment


      #3
      1) Purchase a valve adjustment spring tool (and a feeler gauge if you don't have one).
      2) Remove the valve cover and spark plugs.
      3) Rotate the engine until both lobes on one cylinder are point down.
      4) Loosen the eccentric bolt on each of the valves on that cylinder.
      5) Insert the feeler between the eccentric and valve stem, use the spring to the rotate the eccentric until there is a 45deg bend in the tool.
      6) Tighten the eccentric bolt while maintaining spring pressure on the tool, then remove the feeler gauge.
      7) Repeat for the other valve on the cylinder.
      8) Repeat steps 3 through 7 for the other five cylinders.
      9) Reinstall the spark plugs and the valve cover, using a new gasket and the four rubber bungs.

      The crank can be rotated with a 22mm wrench on the crank bolt, or by bumping the starter with pushbutton connected at the starter or via the diagnostic plug.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment


        #4
        Also, usually a valve adjustment is done when the engine is stone cold...

        Comment


          #5
          jlevie said it well, as usual.

          I'll add some options.
          I leave the plugs in and do the adjustment where i can roll the car several feet. I clean the top of each rocker arm, grab a sharpie marker, and put the car in 4th gear.

          I adjust all the valves that are on the cams base circles (the 1/3 of the cam opposite the nose) and mark the rocker with the sharpie. Push the car to rotate the cam and adjust each remaining valve when it comes onto its base circle.

          When all the rockers are sharpied you are done.
          Lorin


          Originally posted by slammin.e28
          The M30 is God's engine.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
            1) Purchase a valve adjustment spring tool (and a feeler gauge if you don't have one)......
            There is a tool?
            Buying right now..........
            sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
            The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713

            Comment


              #7
              Instead of pushing the car to rotate the crank. I use a jumper wire on the diagnostic port. Pin 11 and 14 which is starter and battery. Just jump it for a second or until you get the cam lobes to where you want it. This was on a late model connector. Early models will be different
              Originally posted by blunttech
              r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

              Comment


                #8
                Jim: I remember you posting something about valve clearances that you recommend using on street m20s. Was it .008 exhaust and .006 intake? As opposed to .010?

                Sent from my Vortex using Tapatalk 2
                1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks guys working on it at the moment a couple good ideas kinda dark thinking about doing it tomorrow don't wanna lose my spot at night
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Instead of pushing the car or jump the diagnostic port, you can put the car in fifth gear, jack up the rear tire, put a piece of tape on the tire to keep track of the # of rotations, rotate the tire until the cam lobe pointing down. It takes a few tries, but after that you can repeat the same number of rotations for the next cylinder (look up Bentley for the firing order). BTW, remove the spark plugs will help with rotating the cam.

                    There are other easy ways...a whistler from Bavauto to locate TDC...the old screw driver in the cylinder method...or a cylinder stop nut.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by SpecM View Post
                      Jim: I remember you posting something about valve clearances that you recommend using on street m20s. Was it .008 exhaust and .006 intake? As opposed to .010?
                      Those settings can be used on a street or track engine, but I would only do that if I knew that the valve guides were in good condition, as would be the case on a recently rebuilt head with new guides.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                      Comment


                        #12
                        do using those tighter settings lead to accelerated wear or have any downsides on a freshly rebuilt head?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          There is a tiny bit more valve opening and the valves will be a bit quieter. As far as I know it does not lead to increased wear.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                            There is a tiny bit more valve opening and the valves will be a bit quieter. As far as I know it does not lead to increased wear.
                            But it can overheat the valves.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              An extra .002" of opening on the exhaust valves isn't going make a big difference in their temperature. Other factors that cause the engine to run lean are more important.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X