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if its a pre 09/87 325i, then it has the dual pump system. Usually what happens with those is the in tank lift pump fails leaving all of the work up to the external high pressure pump. It will work for a while but then eventually it will cause issues.
I think what you're experiencing is the high pressure pump struggling to get enough fuel to the motor. Then, after a few tries, it has enough pressure to get the motor fired.
My advice, get a new lift pump AND high pressure pump Although, you will probably be able to get away with JUST replacing the in tank pump.
Taylor
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Originally posted by E30_fiend View Postif its a pre 09/87 325i, then it has the dual pump system. Usually what happens with those is the in tank lift pump fails leaving all of the work up to the external high pressure pump. It will work for a while but then eventually it will cause issues.
I think what you're experiencing is the high pressure pump struggling to get enough fuel to the motor. Then, after a few tries, it has enough pressure to get the motor fired.
My advice, get a new lift pump AND high pressure pump Although, you will probably be able to get away with JUST replacing the in tank pump.
Taylor
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In order to make it work, you will have to remove all of the outer pump components and install new soft fuel lines.
I assume you have the entire late fuel pump assembly to drop in? Not just the pump? Reason I ask is because if you have JUST the pump then you'll have to do some trimming to make it work but it WILL work.
Taylor
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Before you start replacing parts diagnose the problem. The first checks would be to:
1) Have a smoke test done and fix the leaks it reveals.
2) Tee in a pressure gauge and see what the rail fuel pressure is/does when starting.
3) Check the ECT sensor, at the sensor and at the DME connector.
The in-tank pump from a later model can't be used as is because the assembly doesn't have the fuel return fitting. The in-tank pump could be bad, but I doubt it is the cause of this. When the tank is above 3/4 full (as it was in the video) a failed transfer pump usually doesn't cause any problems. The effect of a failed transfer pump becomes progressively more noticeable below 3/4 of a tank. But in any case you can test the pump to see if is working.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostBefore you start replacing parts diagnose the problem. The first checks would be to:
1) Have a smoke test done and fix the leaks it reveals.
2) Tee in a pressure gauge and see what the rail fuel pressure is/does when starting.
3) Check the ECT sensor, at the sensor and at the DME connector.
The in-tank pump from a later model can't be used as is because the assembly doesn't have the fuel return fitting. The in-tank pump could be bad, but I doubt it is the cause of this. When the tank is above 3/4 full (as it was in the video) a failed transfer pump usually doesn't cause any problems. The effect of a failed transfer pump becomes progressively more noticeable below 3/4 of a tank. But in any case you can test the pump to see if is working.
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Originally posted by E30_fiend View PostJim is usually right. Only rwason I suggested what I did, is because I had this exact issue a few weeks ago.
Taylor
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