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    Need Help E to I engine conversion

    I did the the 2.7 to 2.5 swap, engine, DME, and full engine harness. I am not getting any spark and the fuel pump is not cutting on and the ignition switch is not turning the engine. I have to jump it at the starter to turn it over. Anyone have any ideas here. Thanks in advance

    #2
    Sounds like a missed/ bad connection somewhere, or a blown fuse. Start checking connectors and sensors.
    I have friends who are EOD bro.

    That's awesome. I have friends who make coffee for a living, but you don't see me rocking out a bunch of lattes

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ADlBOO View Post
      Sounds like a missed/ bad connection somewhere, or a blown fuse. Start checking connectors and sensors.
      I do have two brown wires that run next to the ignition coil wires that I am trying to figure out where they run too. Any idea where those two brown wires go? Thanks

      Comment


        #4
        brown wires are ground wires. ground them down and you should be good to go

        Comment


          #5
          theyre ground wires if they are solid brown. usually mount on the strut tower..

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Jahman093 View Post
            brown wires are ground wires. ground them down and you should be good to go
            I did originally have them grounded, but still had same issues. There is also a thick harness that has a big round connector at the end that I did not hook up since I think it goes to an auto trans. Sound right?

            Comment


              #7
              I have been searching for a DIY E to I conversion for over an hour. But have not found anything. I have a 1985 325e 2.7 and have installed 2.5 engine, harness and ecu from a 1987 is. Need to find a good DIY if anyone knows of one. Thanks

              Comment


                #10
                The failure of the starter to turn sounds like power from the ignition switch isn't reaching the starter solenoid. That could be a problem with C101. No spark or fuel pump operation when cranking could be any of a number of things. Run through the checks below to find the problem. You will need the wiring diagrams for an 87 for the connector pin outs (http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm


                For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

                Power on DME pins:
                27 Start Input
                18 Un-switched Power input
                37 Power Input from Main Relay

                Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

                Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

                To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
                from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
                controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
                output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

                To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
                pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
                respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
                three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
                injectors is controlled by the main relay. Injector firing is best checked
                with a noid light.

                The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
                output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
                relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
                is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
                11.

                The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires
                that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
                in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
                main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
                DME.

                Troubleshooting:

                Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

                1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
                DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

                2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
                the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
                540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
                sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

                3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
                pump relay 85.

                Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
                relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
                following checks:

                1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
                86 & 30.

                2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
                18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
                injectors and fuel pump relay.

                3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
                14, 19, 24).

                4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
                pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

                The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
                DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
                necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

                IMPORTANT:

                A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
                you measure across the battery terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
                charged battery.

                A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

                An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

                A good quality auto-ranging digital multimeter will make these tests much
                easier.
                The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                Comment


                  #11
                  Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                  The failure of the starter to turn sounds like power from the ignition switch isn't reaching the starter solenoid. That could be a problem with C101. No spark or fuel pump operation when cranking could be any of a number of things. Run through the checks below to find the problem. You will need the wiring diagrams for an 87 for the connector pin outs (http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm


                  For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

                  Power on DME pins:
                  27 Start Input
                  18 Un-switched Power input
                  37 Power Input from Main Relay

                  Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

                  Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

                  To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
                  from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
                  controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
                  output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

                  To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
                  pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
                  respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
                  three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
                  injectors is controlled by the main relay. Injector firing is best checked
                  with a noid light.

                  The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
                  output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
                  relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
                  is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
                  11.

                  The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires
                  that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
                  in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
                  main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
                  DME.

                  Troubleshooting:

                  Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

                  1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
                  DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

                  2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
                  the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
                  540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
                  sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

                  3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
                  pump relay 85.

                  Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
                  relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
                  following checks:

                  1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
                  86 & 30.

                  2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
                  18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
                  injectors and fuel pump relay.

                  3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
                  14, 19, 24).

                  4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
                  pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

                  The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
                  DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
                  necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

                  IMPORTANT:

                  A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
                  you measure across the battery terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
                  charged battery.

                  A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

                  An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

                  A good quality auto-ranging digital multimeter will make these tests much
                  easier.
                  try this

                  Comment


                    #12
                    Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                    The failure of the starter to turn sounds like power from the ignition switch isn't reaching the starter solenoid. That could be a problem with C101. No spark or fuel pump operation when cranking could be any of a number of things. Run through the checks below to find the problem. You will need the wiring diagrams for an 87 for the connector pin outs (http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm


                    For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

                    Power on DME pins:
                    27 Start Input
                    18 Un-switched Power input
                    37 Power Input from Main Relay

                    Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

                    Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

                    To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
                    from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
                    controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
                    output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

                    To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
                    pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
                    respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
                    three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
                    injectors is controlled by the main relay. Injector firing is best checked
                    with a noid light.

                    The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
                    output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
                    relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
                    is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
                    11.

                    The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires
                    that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
                    in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
                    main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
                    DME.

                    Troubleshooting:

                    Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

                    1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
                    DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

                    2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560 ohms. If
                    the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change from about 500 to
                    540-560 ohms when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
                    sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

                    3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
                    pump relay 85.

                    Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 1mm), plug the
                    relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
                    following checks:

                    1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
                    86 & 30.

                    2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
                    18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
                    injectors and fuel pump relay.

                    3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
                    14, 19, 24).

                    4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
                    pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

                    The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
                    DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
                    necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

                    IMPORTANT:

                    A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
                    you measure across the battery terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
                    charged battery.

                    A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

                    An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

                    A good quality auto-ranging digital multimeter will make these tests much
                    easier.
                    Wow, good info. Thanks for taking the time to post all this info. I did get the car running today, but it is not running right, car idles great but when I accelerate the car just Boggs out. I think it is maybe in the wiring. One of my technicians is doing the job for me and I printed this info for him. But he does not think its a wiring issue. What do you guys think?

                    Comment


                      #13
                      If the engine fires and runs, the wiring probably isn't the cause. That would sound more like a fuel delivery or engine management data issue.
                      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                      Comment


                        #14
                        Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                        If the engine fires and runs, the wiring probably isn't the cause. That would sound more like a fuel delivery or engine management data issue.
                        I am using the 2.7 afm, Do you think it is the 2.5 afm needed to make it run right?

                        Comment


                          #15
                          Originally posted by Qik-BMW View Post
                          I am using the 2.7 afm, Do you think it is the 2.5 afm needed to make it run right?
                          You absolutely must use the AFM for an 2.5 engine.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                          Comment

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