m20b27 main and rod bearings

[ghalee30]

i hope im in the right place.. please move if not

i need to buy a complete set for a 85' eta block.
im a little lost on finding the exact product i need from a reputable shop

i also need piston rings for the same motor.


can anyone recommend a place or someone who can source these for me.
phone number?
location?


dont mind a drive in socal.
thank you r3v

[SkiFree]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/BOARD/showthread.php?t=256117

Close to Pasadena?

[jlevie]

You won't know what bearings to order until the block is torn down, the crank inspected, the journals polished, and the journals measured. Assuming that the crank can be reused, once you have the journal diameters you pick the "color" of bearings based on the diameters (see the Bentley for the table). If you are lucky you will be able to use one "color" of main and and one color of rod bearings. But it isn't uncommon to need bearings from two or more colors.

The cylinder bores will have to be checked for taper and wear. If out of spec, there is little point of just changing the rings. Overbore and new pistons would be needed, in which case it would be cheaper to replace the bottom end (or entire engine) with one in better condition. The the cylinders are okay, they need to be cross hatch honed so the new rings will seat.

And add a new oil pump and oil relief valve to the parts list.

[ghalee30]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/BOARD/showthread.php?t=256117

Close to Pasadena?

I've read this a few times, had definitely cleared up some questions.
I guess I have to buy two "I" late style bearings and combine the "e" bearings ?

and yes I'm about 30mins away. I was going to give IE a call once I had a better understanding of everything.

and as far as specs. crank main and rod journals measured within .001" including out of round.

block will be checked for taper this week but cross hatches look good
piston cap ring clearance will also be checked this Saturday

I'm hoping to keep everything at oem clearance. so far everything looks good.
po stated it overheated a little.
bearings looked good. block will be decked as minimal as possible.

and yes I definitely want to replace the oil relief valve and such.
thanks for the input jlevie

[MR 325]

Unless something has gone wrong with your engine the crank will need nothing more than a polish and the cylinders will need nothing more than a simple ball hone. With Eta parts so readily available it would be silly to have the block bored or the crank ground. No need to worry about that silly color coded bearing nonsense.

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...KS&weight=0.51

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...KS&weight=1.46

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...ES&weight=0.57

[jlevie]

and as far as specs. crank main and rod journals measured within .001" including out of round.

You need to measure the journals a bit more accurately than that using a micrometer that can measure to a tenth.

[ghalee30]

Unless something has gone wrong with your engine the crank will need nothing more than a polish and the cylinders will need nothing more than a simple ball hone. With Eta parts so readily available it would be silly to have the block bored or the crank ground. No need to worry about that silly color coded bearing nonsense.

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...KS&weight=0.51

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...KS&weight=1.46

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...ES&weight=0.57

seems like the route I'm heading into.
before I forget I'm a little curious on the direction of the ring cap, would it matter if Im going force induction ?

and I am using a micrometer that maxes out at a thousandth (.000)

[efficient]

Hows my old block coming out?