Car hesitates under throttle

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  • burkem
    Noobie
    • Mar 2013
    • 16

    #1

    Car hesitates under throttle

    I recently picked up a 1987 325is. The car ran pretty well but didnt like to start first crank. It would take about 5 seconds to turn over and the idle wasnt great. After reading on a few forums I decided to clean the CPS. I removed it and sure enough it was coated in gunk. I cleaned all the gunk off with a rag and reinstalled it. Now the car still idles poorly and it hesitates badly under throttle. When I put it in gear and try to drive it, the motor kinda stops and will stall out. The only way I can get the car to move is to rev it real high and let off the clutch. The previous owner said he replaced the entire fuel system from the tank to the injectors. He replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap. All the good stuff for an old car. Im not sure what cleaning the CPS could have caused but if anybody has advice on what to do or where to go from here, please share. Thanks.
  • ELVA164
    R3V Elite
    • Dec 2011
    • 4861

    #2
    You should get a smoke test done to check for vacuum leaks, although it could be possible that the CPS is worn aside from being dirty. Start there, but other possibilities are the AFM or ECU.
    Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

    Elva Courier build thread here!

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    • e30construction
      E30 Addict
      • Jan 2013
      • 591

      #3
      +1..also cleaning a worn out cps will do nothing if the magnestism is going out
      sigpic
      93 325i 120k
      mods: straight pipe,eibach sport springs,style 54s,kamotors carbonfiber cai,
      future mods: chip, m3 cams, headers, turbo

      Comment

      • Killacortes
        E30 Mastermind
        • May 2010
        • 1937

        #4
        Check your coil too.
        Originally posted by blunttech
        r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

        Comment

        • burkem
          Noobie
          • Mar 2013
          • 16

          #5
          Would checking the resistance confirm if the CPS is faulty? Also, the car ran ok prior to cleaning it, now I cant even drive the car its so bad. The only other thing I have done is removed the seats and carpet in the car but I dont think that could be related.
          What exactly am I looking for when I check my coil?

          Comment

          • dnguyen1963
            R3VLimited
            • Nov 2011
            • 2648

            #6
            Don't waste your time and energy until you have a smoke test done!

            Comment

            • burkem
              Noobie
              • Mar 2013
              • 16

              #7
              I think Im gonna try and build my own smoke tester and perform the test at my house. Has anybody done this and have any advice?

              Comment

              • dnguyen1963
                R3VLimited
                • Nov 2011
                • 2648

                #8
                You can buy a smoke machine (for party) from Amazon for @ $40. Have the smoke pump into a large closed plastic tub. Place a fish tank air pump in the tub to pump the smoke to the engine. You need to plug the exhaust and the air intake boot to find small leaks. There are other DIY for cheaper smokers on the internet. Or, the best bet is to find a shop that can perform a smoke test (for about $100).

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                • burkem
                  Noobie
                  • Mar 2013
                  • 16

                  #9
                  Okay, I have further determined the problem. It only runs poorly when its cold outside or before the car warms up. I drove it today a few miles after it was warm and it ran ok. I know the sensor that sits in the coolant tank on the passenger side of the bay is no good. Also, a few other questions I have. The clutch squeaks when releasing it to take off in first gear, very odd IMO. Also, the steering squeaks when I turn the wheel at low speed, no idea why.

                  Comment

                  • jlevie
                    R3V OG
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 13530

                    #10
                    A smoke test of the car should be the first thing done. Followed by repair of the leaks the test reveals.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                    Comment

                    • bddog
                      Grease Monkey
                      • Feb 2004
                      • 351

                      #11
                      Why does everybody keep telling people to take it to the shop for a smoke test?
                      I never take my vehicles to the shop.
                      For half the price of a smoke test alone, I can purchase all new vacuum hoses, boots,etc.
                      While at the shop, I suppose you would have them fix the vacuum leaks. Just try to keep them from charging you for the test alone. How about a tune up? Have them change your oil.
                      I hunted down and fixed my vacuum leaks. Fixed whatever has come up for eight years without a smoke test. If something is old and brittle, replace it.
                      For the OP: There is a boot between the throttle body and your air flow meter. I would look at replacing it. It can have cracks in the folds. Myself, I would just purchase all new vacuum hoses and lines. Start fresh. These cars are prone to vacuum leaks that effect performance. Thus, the "smoke test" folk.
                      Last edited by bddog; 04-12-2013, 11:08 AM.

                      Comment

                      • dnguyen1963
                        R3VLimited
                        • Nov 2011
                        • 2648

                        #12
                        Vacuum leaks can come from many other places besides hoses and lines.

                        Comment

                        • mrgraphics
                          Wrencher
                          • Dec 2011
                          • 221

                          #13
                          Mine hesitated from idle to acceleration. Turns out the bitch tube had an air leak due to a worn o-ring. Only doing a smoke test found it. I wasted months chasing it. What is your time worth?

                          Comment

                          • bddog
                            Grease Monkey
                            • Feb 2004
                            • 351

                            #14
                            Months? Wow. Sounds like you need to take yours to the shop for an oil change. All men are not created equal.

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