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Idle and throttle bad after replacing tons of stuff. Please help

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  • Ginsterman98
    replied
    When is the last time you did a valve adjustment? Possible this is a mechanical issue. Do a compression test.

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  • petmybadger
    replied
    If the fabled bitch tube o rings were bad would the car leak oil? Mine doesn't. Trying to narrow this down.

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  • mzollo
    replied
    C191 is a circle connector twists apart be sure to check it for corrosion or see if the plug is wet, the boots are notorious for holding water. It powers your injectors so a faulty or corroded terminal may cause a misfire or rough running conditions. I just deleted mine to solve my isssue

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  • coldweatherblue
    replied
    my bad yes it goes from the block. the hose from the valve cover to throttle body is the "breather hose"

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  • SmokeE30
    replied
    Originally posted by coldweatherblue View Post
    The oil return tube goes from the driver's side Engine block to the intake manifold between cylinder 3/4. There are o rings on both the intake and oil pan side that can leak
    fixed, any more confusion search for "bitch tube"

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  • coldweatherblue
    replied
    The oil return tube goes from the driver's side oil pan to the intake manifold between cylinder 3/4. There are o rings on both the intake and oil pan side that can leak

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  • petmybadger
    replied
    Is the oil return tube the one coming from the top of the valve cover and goes to the throttle body? If that's what you mean then I replaced that.

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  • coldweatherblue
    replied
    does your engine sound "cammed" at idle? does it pop like it wants to backfire while coasting down hills?

    probably an intake leak.

    I had similar symptoms and replaced what I thought were all the vacuum lines, boot, etc along with a bunch of sensors and basic tune up (inspection II) and while the car definitely needed all that, it didn't fix the problem.

    so did a smoke test and found smoke pouring from the intake side of the oil return tube. replaced the tube with all new parts and the leak/cel/mileage/throttleresponse all were fixed.

    Faulty oil return tube o rings can increase blow by in the engine as well which will lead to oil in the intake, etc. I had a fair amount of oil in my intake as well as soaking the air filter, etc, which caused some smoke on start up so I thought it was rings/HG/crack but all was fixed w/ a new air filter and oil return tube.

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  • petmybadger
    replied
    The engine runs rough at idle as well as having poor throttle response. I sprayed carb cleaner around every nook and cranny I could think of to no avail. I will try a smoke test next. If I can, I will get a video up here for further discussion. Thanks everybody so far for your input!

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  • jlevie
    replied
    I would not look for other causes until I was positive (as proved by a smoke test) that there are no intake leaks. The behavior of the engine as the throttle is opened is most commonly the result of intake leaks. That upset in the AFF can also make the engine run rough.

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  • petmybadger
    replied
    Crank sensor is good. All wires are in correctly. What should the resistance be for them? They were all around 6 ohms.

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  • CabbE30
    replied
    I'm thinking this is a spark issue, the "putt-putt" sounds like a misfire. Did you replace your spark plug wires? Check your resistances in your wires, & triple check to make sure they are correctly coming from the cap to their respective cylinder. Hopefully your cap is labeled for the cylinders bc i've seen some that are blank.

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  • e30conv2
    replied
    Did you check your crank sensor too? Pull your ohm meter out & give it a test.

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  • petmybadger
    replied
    So I have tested the TPS among many other things as stated in my original post. I'm still having the same issue. The idle speed is perfect but the engine is "putt putting" and the throttle response is about 50%. I removed each spark plug wire one at a time. Every one resulted in rpm dip then increase except the 6th one which after unplugging the wire at both ends and pulling the plug and placing it on the manifold with wire plugged in it definitely had spark. I checked the voltage going to all the injectors as well as the resistance on the injectors themselves. They are rebuilt ones I purchased a month or two ago. The only thing that is funky is the voltage going to the ICV which read around 6V from each side to the center terminal. After testing everything, unplugging everything, and checking several times I am just about at wits end. I've read about the c191 connector. I've tried unplugging that but it wont come apart. Is there a certain way that it separates? Could it be a bad lead to/from the ECU? Any help/knowledge is very much appreciated.

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  • petmybadger
    replied
    ^
    ^
    That makes sense because when I pulled the intake boot and air box for cleaning, there was a little bit of oil in them. So I will check that out. Thanks for the advice everyone.

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