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m20b25 stumbles hard and won't recover, stalls once clutch depressed kicked in N

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    #16
    Can give the coolant temp sensor a look.


    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    My expectation is an immediate 5 speed swap. Autos suck more than a 50 year old whore.

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      #17
      Hi Golfer, I don't think you're doing the stomp test right. If you're doing it right you should get the "no fault" code which i believe is 1444. If you're getting nothing, then you have a dead ECU (not possible if the car runs) or you're not doing it right.

      My money is on bad crank position sensor.

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        #18
        Originally posted by 997_rich View Post
        Hi Golfer, I don't think you're doing the stomp test right. If you're doing it right you should get the "no fault" code which i believe is 1444. If you're getting nothing, then you have a dead ECU (not possible if the car runs) or you're not doing it right.

        My money is on bad crank position sensor.
        Haha always a chance I didn't do the stomp test correct. I'll try it again. Key in position 2 and depress the accelerator to the floor 5 times, anything I missed in the test?

        Are there any leads that needed to be hooked up when the motor was swapped in for the stomp test to work correctly? Is the wiring part of the main harness or one of the other 3 leads coming off under the glove box to the chassi harness?

        The CPS was replaced when the motor was swapped in.

        Thanks for all the continued help, I really appreciate it.
        Last edited by Golfer_705; 05-03-2013, 10:17 PM. Reason: Update with more info

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          #19
          If you have evrything hooked up right and could not get stomp test to work then I would check the TPS. It might not be reporting the correct throttle position to the ECU.

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            #20
            Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
            If you have evrything hooked up right and could not get stomp test to work then I would check the TPS. It might not be reporting the correct throttle position to the ECU.
            I have never seen the check engine light on. Key on engine off or running. The only check light I get is for the brake/headlights/ washer fluid etc as well as the service interval light. All bulbs in the cluster were replace. Is there anything someone can think of that may have been missed when M20B25 swap was done that could have disabled it?

            Thanks again for all the help

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              #21
              Take the cluster out and reflow the solder.

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                #22
                New O2 sensor finally showed up. The stumble and stall issue is resolved. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

                As far as the check engine light is concerned I'm a little embarrassed to ask but is the check engine light the circle with ( ) around it and an ! In the center? All pervious clusters have just said check. If so it turns on with the key on engine off. Turns off when the engine is running. With the key on engine off it remains on solid when a stomp test is preformed.

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