Recently swapped engine wont start

[avRudy30]

Recently our mechanic had swapped my eta engine with another donor eta that was running fine. Now it wont start it cranks as long as i hold it but doesnt go any further than that. We checked all the sensors, replaced the ecu with original. Anyone else have this problem if so how did you solve it? What do you guys think

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

[Chriskbmx]

probably got the reference and crank sensor backwards on the bellhousing.

[redhatpat]

It could be a lot of things, but the first thing that comes to mind, is make sure the CPS is connected and working.

[MR 325]

So did you check for fuel and spark? "Anyone else have this problem" is pretty damn vague.

[Playgunz]

So did you check for fuel and spark? "Anyone else have this problem" is pretty damn vague.

If this guy didn't have such a sweet azz car I would say he is kinda mean, but..... He is a mod and has a nice azz car so I say quit being so dang vague, lol.

[avRudy30]

If this guy didn't have such a sweet azz car I would say he is kinda mean, but..... He is a mod and has a nice azz car so I say quit being so dang vague, lol.

lol no offense is taken, i am still new to cars/e30s so i have no problem accepting the noob license

everything is fine as far as I know, we checked over all the sensors, replaced sparkplugs, reset electronics and other stuff as well. my mechanic is saying it has to do with the computer getting used to the new motor, but I thought i'd just see if this was usual with swapping motors or not.

[dnguyen1963]

So did you check for fuel and spark? "Anyone else have this problem" is pretty damn vague.

I think he meant "Does anyone else have this problem?".

[UserError]

Frankly, your mechanic is BSing you. My first guesses would be a crank sensor going out, or a fuel problem. The easier one to eliminate would be a fuel pressure issue. Go to the auto parts store and get a fuel pressure gauge. You'll also want to get an 8mm (or 5/16 inch) T fitting, a piece of hose, and a can of starting fluid. Crank the motor over, and see if you get pressure. If you don't, then take the intake hose off and spray a bit of starter fluid onto the throttle plate. Try again. If it starts and then dies, then the fuel pump is bad.

If it doesn't start, then you need to check spark. Take one of the old spark plugs you replaced, and pull the #2 spark plug wire from the plug. Touch the threads of the plug onto a metal piece of the engine, the valve cover works fine for this. Have a friend/enemy/family member crank over the engine, and look for a blue spark at the end of the plug. It helps a bit if it's dark when you try this. If you don't have spark on #2, check on #1. If you have spark there, then it's a bad crank sensor (your mechanic should've replaced them when they did the motor, anyway). If there's no spark on 1 and 2, then plug the spark plug wires back in, and check for spark at the coil. Same procedure, more or less, though you need to pull the coil wire off of the distributor. If there's spark there, then you need to start by replacing the cap and rotor, and go from there.

Why isn't the mechanic doing this, anyway? They put the motor in, they should make sure it runs before you get it.

[603Racing]

10 to 1 something isn't connected properly. Just curious, what is the production date of your car and the donor car?

Go with UserError's suggestions, check for fuel and spark. You will have not have one or the other (or both).

[MR 325]

As I said the first thing you need to do is check for spark and check for fuel.