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M20 No Start, Cranks All Day

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  • eskimo810
    replied
    Originally posted by mzollo View Post
    well, the main issue with that plug is that the rubber boots hold back water and sometimes coolant which leaks from the throttle body, granted my coolant lines to the TB were deleted but my boots still had loads of coolant(OLD) and water. so i had to delete the plug all together.yes my corrosion was green and looked like an old battery terminal
    I didn't see anything like that, and I hope I don't have to mess with replacing a connector off the wiring harness :D

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  • mzollo
    replied
    well, the main issue with that plug is that the rubber boots hold back water and sometimes coolant which leaks from the throttle body, granted my coolant lines to the TB were deleted but my boots still had loads of coolant(OLD) and water. so i had to delete the plug all together.yes my corrosion was green and looked like an old battery terminal

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  • eskimo810
    replied
    Originally posted by mzollo View Post
    **EDIT** i see you checked it, but make sure its not coroded etc
    please check plug C191 it is underneath the intake boot and throttle body it is a round 7 pin plug that controls your injector harness. notorious for corrosion and holding water. i had a similar issue
    I did check to make sure that it was actually connected, but I'll separate it and examine any corrosion.

    Edit: Checked that plug, doesn't seem out of the ordinary. In your experience was the evidence of corrosion fairly obvious? Mine is a little dirty but doesn't seem bad. I don't think it was ever exposed to rain or anything.
    Last edited by eskimo810; 06-21-2013, 11:13 AM.

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  • mzollo
    replied
    **EDIT** i see you checked it, but make sure its not coroded etc
    please check plug C191 it is underneath the intake boot and throttle body it is a round 7 pin plug that controls your injector harness. notorious for corrosion and holding water. i had a similar issue

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  • eskimo810
    replied
    Originally posted by jlevie View Post
    When cranking is there spark, correct rail pressure, and injector firing?
    I don't have a way to test fuel pressure at the moment unfortunately. How would I test if the injectors are firing? That's what I feel like the problem is, and I was hoping the CPS would rectify that. I did check the "screw-type" connection for the injectors coming from the wiring harness, but that was all.

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  • eskimo810
    replied
    I should have said this earlier, but the fuel pump is good. Sends a nice healthy flow of fuel out of the line leading to the fuel rail. A good blue spark is also present.

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  • e34_spangler
    replied
    If you smack your fuel pump will trying to start the car and it starts you have found your problem its a fuel pump that's an easy check

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  • SmokeE30
    replied
    So the fuel pump is for sure not turning on? If the cps is good and the relay is good you should have power to the pump. Test for power at the pump while cranking, it must be cranking not just key on. If no power is present look at the relays

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  • jlevie
    replied
    When cranking is there spark, correct rail pressure, and injector firing?

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  • eskimo810
    replied
    Update: Bought a new CPS and got it this morning. Still no start, in fact, the only change is that my multimeter is now showing the resistance as a touch over 500ohm. I'll keep investigating today, welcome to any suggestions! Thanks for the help so far.

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  • ak-
    replied
    I want you to not listen to anyone and just check your CPS

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  • e30trooper
    replied
    Change the cps , check the main relay or fuel pump relay. Try doing a stomp test? Did you get the cps and that spark plug wire adapter mixed up? They look the same.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    That sounds like a bad CPS if your meter is reading correctly.

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  • eskimo810
    replied
    Alright so I've gotten around to trying some things.

    -I swapped in my old 153 ECU with no chip and it acted exactly as it has been. I put the new 173 back in.

    -I can hear the fuel pump click when I turn the key to the "on" position.

    -I started going through the troubleshooting guide that jlevie posts often: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...CPS+resistance

    Resistance across DME pins 47 & 48 is higher than it should be at around 670 ohm (+/- 15, analog meters FTL.) I get the same reading when I test the pins on the connector near the front of the engine. Is this the sign of a failed CPS? Or would there be no resistance if it was failed?

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  • dougie30
    replied
    Check your cps. After that check your cps again, and right after that make sure to check your cps

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