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Help! Clicking Noise (w/Video)

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    Help! Clicking Noise (w/Video)

    I just finished installing a new water pump, timing belt/tensioner, and v-belts (first time doing this job). When I started it up to bleed the cooling system, it was making a very loud clicking noise (see video). That can't be normal, right? Any ideas what it could be?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dptNzB1f68c
    My '89 325is
    (oo=□□=oo)

    #2
    Silly question, did you put the belts back on in the correct order at the correct tension?
    I love that people ask stupid questions so I dont have.

    Comment


      #3
      It did take me a minute to remember how the belts went back on, but you can see how the different pulleys align on different planes, so I think I did it right. As far as the tension, I made sure there was no slack in any of the belts, but I'm not sure how tight they're supposed to be. Is it possible to make them too tight?
      My '89 325is
      (oo=□□=oo)

      Comment


        #4
        What a freaking mess.

        First, I ran it for a few minutes to look for overheating and to see if I could find the source of the noise. Could the water pump be making that noise? I was listening closer and it seems like it's coming from that area, so I was thinking either timing belt/tensioner or water pump.

        I also noticed a small coolant leak coming from the same area, and then the temp gauge started rising past normal, so I quickly shut the car off. The rubber hoses on top were very hot and it kind of sounded like boiling coolant.

        Obviously something isn't right and I have to take it all apart again, but just curious if anyone has any more insight before I do. It's a brand new Graf pump with a new gasket and everything, so I don't know what I did wrong.

        Thanks for any help you can give.
        My '89 325is
        (oo=□□=oo)

        Comment


          #5
          is your clutch fan on and tight and not hitting anything?

          also sounds like its coming from where the cap rotor are.. hard to say from vid and that would have nothing to do with over heating unless you have air in your coolant lines anyway..

          R.I.P. 87 White 325is, Sold 85 Black 325e

          Comment


            #6
            That sounds like a cam that is out of time. Re-check cam timing and put the cam back in time. Then have compression & leak down tests run to see if any of the valves are bent.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment


              #7
              Sometimes the shroud around the clutch fan comes loose and rubs against the fan near the bottom. Make sure the shroud is snug against the radiator.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the responses. I really hope it's the fan and I didn't mess up the valves. I checked and re-checked the timing marks several times, so we'll see. On a positive note, I'm getting pretty good at dismantling the front end (this will be the third time just for this project).
                My '89 325is
                (oo=□□=oo)

                Comment


                  #9
                  are you sure you found the correct marks on the bottom end... I defiantly did that wrong before but luckily I was doing a head gasket change and noticed right away and did it by looking at the cylinders. it took me a few years on the e30 to actually find the real mark., but that's also because I work in a dark garage

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                    #10
                    You did turn the engine over twice and re-check your marks before sealing her back up, correct?
                    I had the fan hitting a lower radiator hose after doing one once.
                    Check to see if the fan is hitting a hose or the shroud. Hope that's it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Dirty325ix View Post
                      are you sure you found the correct marks on the bottom end
                      Aw crap... you're right. I was looking at a mark on the face of the vibration damper (centered in that gap between the sprocket teeth) rather than the actual timing mark. Why the hell are there two different marks so close together? That's freakin confusing to noobs like me.

                      Ok, any other noobies out there reading this, don't make the same mistake I did. The lower (crankshaft) timing mark is circled in green below, NOT the mother-B crossed out in red.



                      Damn that's frustrating. Okay, so assuming the sound in my original post is interference between the pistons and valves, how badly did I mess up my engine? Judging by the photo above, my crankshaft was rotated about 2 notches past the proper timing mark.

                      I fixed the timing belt tonight and put everything back together. Should I try to start the car again and see what happens or do I risk doing more damage?
                      My '89 325is
                      (oo=□□=oo)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by CMthe4th View Post
                        Aw crap... you're right. I was looking at a mark on the face of the vibration damper (centered in that gap between the sprocket teeth) rather than the actual timing mark. Why the hell are there two different marks so close together? That's freakin confusing to noobs like me.
                        That is why one should never use the mark on the harmonic balancer. With the harmonic balancer & timing covers off, the crank hub and it's mark is visible. Line the mark on the crank hub up with the V notch in the lower inner timing cover and you are certain to be at TDC.
                        Damn that's frustrating. Okay, so assuming the sound in my original post is interference between the pistons and valves, how badly did I mess up my engine? Judging by the photo above, my crankshaft was rotated about 2 notches past the proper timing mark.

                        I fixed the timing belt tonight and put everything back together. Should I try to start the car again and see what happens or do I risk doing more damage?
                        There is a pretty good chance that the valves escaped injury. I've seen this happen a few times and haven't yet seen it result in valve damage as proved by leak down tests.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just finished driving it around for 30 minutes and so far it's running very well. No bad noises, no leaks, so I've avoided disaster for now. I still want to do a leakdown test soon, but just wanted to thank you all for your help and suggestions.
                          My '89 325is
                          (oo=□□=oo)

                          Comment

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