Was wondering if my idle issue was unique.

[THQ]

For a few weeks I've lurked around and have tried everything (I literally have 28 bookmarks from searches)

I have an '85 325e with an issue with Temp sensor (not the thermo time switch, and not the 2 or 1 prong switch)

With the sensor unplugged the engine starts fine, when I plug it in the engine starts chugging and tries to idle but dies in about ~5 seconds.

- The sensor is brand new. (I have a crappy one to try out, somewhere)
- The 1 prong switch is new.
- Brand new coolant, hoses, thermostat.


If anyone has some ideas please let me know. I have a spare ECU but haven't tried it yet because it's chipped and I still have 87 AKI in it.

Thanks

[TurboJake]

Check the resistance of the sensor. It's not common, but new sensors can also be bad.

[hendrixvodu]

I had a bad idle one time chased it for a while ended up being my dme was bad ... Just something else you could try

[THQ]

I checked both, got nothing. I'm replacing spark plugs and wires since the wires themselves are mismatched colors for whatever reason.

Anyone else have some ideas?

[hendrixvodu]

clean idle control valve for good measure, also have you tried replacing the green idle control box its located behind the dme in glove box area

[THQ]

I have a "refurb" idle control valve, but I guess it won't hurt to give it a clean.

I also have 2 of those idle control boxes and have the newest one put in. I haven't switched between the two in a few weeks but I kinda counted that out towards the beginning of my woes.

I also checked my TPS and it was reading a good amount according to the Bentley. Any random or estranged issues people have had relative to this?

[THQ]

I've been working on it some more, and I keep hearing two things from people

- Stuck injectors
- Bad Fuel pressure regulator.

I ordered some parts to work on both, but the problem is still consistent with plugging in this: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3534/...e8bca66e_o.jpg sensor. The motor runs in open loop until I plug that in.

Then it dies.

[THQ]

I just replaced the spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires and fuel pressure regulator.

No change.


Still struggling and bucking and not idling. acts as if it has no power.

[oldmann]

Maybe ground wires to engine?

[THQ]

I just swapped the oil pan to near-alternator one recently when I did my oil pan. it did it before I had to replace my oil pan too.

I have two running from two holes on the 318 battery tray area to the valve cover for safe keeping. the one I had originally there was off of my Vanagon that I had laying around brand new. came with some camper kit I had laying around that I never used.

Is there another crucial one around?

Thank you for the tip though.

[jlevie]

With the ECT sensor unplugged the DME thinks that the engine is really cold and needs a rich mixture, which can compensate for unmetered air entering the engine. Have a shop run a smoke test to look for intake leaks.

[THQ]

is that the two prong sensor? That is the only one that hasn't arrived yet.

Also, I'm putting in an in-line fuel pressure gauge today.

[jlevie]

The sensor with the two prongs, normally in the lower position on the thermostat housing, is the ECT sensor.

[THQ]

replaced the ECT. you said its in the lower position? Do you have a picture of another eta setup? the wiring in this has been "Tampered with" but still draws power to the books. Seriously. I tested it all.

Heres a video by the way http://youtu.be/YE-fWVBw4kY

If anyone...anyone anyone can give me a few words that would be great.

[THQ]

Solution: My AFM was working, but upon further inspection it was heavily corroded inside and had been "messed with." Pulled a super eta AFM from the junk yard and it runs perfect.