spark and fuel, but won't start?

[user948123]

Hello r3vlimited! I'm hoping to query the minds here as to why my engine will not start. I've recently installed a rebuilt cylinder head, all new top end gaskets, water pump, timing belt, and accessory belts on a 1989 325i. After this the engine ran, but some coolant leaked in the crank position sensor. It would not start after this.

The next day I went and got a CPS from the junkyard, but it is for a e34 535i. I installed it, and still no start. Then I messed with the injector rail wiring cables, and it started. I fixed all coolant and vacuum leaks, but there was a noise from the front of the engine.

I pulled apart the front of the engine, and realized it was a loose timing belt cover. While I was in there I torqued down the timing belt tensioner, which I was a bit loose. I also verified that the timing was still correct. During this process I believe I might have got more coolant onto the new CPS, but I am not sure. When I reassembled everything, the car would not start. It still will not start.

I've checked that I'm getting spark, and when I pull the plugs out they smell like gasoline, so I'm getting fuel. That and the car was running fine before I dissembled the front of the engine.

What do minds of r3vlimited make of this. Did I make the same mistake twice with coolant in the crank position sensor, or is it something else? If something else, what could it be, considering I only took off the upper timing cover and ignition pieces? Did the leaking coolant damage something else that I don't know about?

[mr.vang]

First thing, check the fuses. Next, use a gauge and check the fuel pressure.

[user948123]

OK so I went out this morning and check the fuses (all were good). I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, so I am unable to measure that. I did touch the line, and there is definitely fuel flowing. Do I need to go get the gauge, or is there another direction I can go for now?

As a side note, I did the stomp test, but only get 1444, no codes.

[603Racing]

+1 to Mr. Vang.

Just because you have fuel doesn't mean you have the correct fuel pressure. Most autoparts stores have fuel pressure gauges you can rent or use for free. T the gauge in to the line where the supply line comes into the fuel rail.

Also, do a noid light test on injector connectors.

[user948123]

Thanks for the replies guys. I had a spare fuel pressure regulator lying around and swapped that in, along with a new crank position sensor, and distributor rotor (there was a crack in mine), and it starts right up and runs great now.

Any hints on problem #2? My coolant system refuses to bleed properly!

I jacked up the front of the car, on an already elevated driveway, while I poured the coolant into the coolant overflow tank. During this pouring I had the heater on and the bleed screw open. When I got a steady stream I closed the bleed screw, and started the car. At this point I periodically bled it until the about half way through the temp gauge.

Half way through the temp gauge, or a little bit higher is when the problem appears. the coolant will come out bubbly, or sometimes even smooth, from the bleed screw, and then it starts to boil. It flows very quickly out of the overflow hose, and at that point, primarily steam comes out of the bleed screw. I always shut the car down at this point so that it does not overheat.I have to refill the coolant after this, in order to try bleeding again, since so much is lost out of the overflow hose.

The bottom left corner of the radiator (looking from the front of the car) does not warm up, and nor does the hose attached to it. there does not appear to be any noticeable coolant leaks in the engine bay, so this has me stumped.

Thanks for all the help!

UPDATE: The heat stays on and works great right up until the coolant starts boiling (halfway mark), and then it is a lot cooler.