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Serious Misfire and Gas in Intake Manifold

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    Serious Misfire and Gas in Intake Manifold

    I have a 1990 325i Convertible with an M20 and automatic transmission. When I got the car it was in pretty rough shape, but the engine ran fine despite having old gas in the tank. The odo read 64k but had stopped working. After driving it to a place I could work on it (~50 miles in total) it was still running alright.

    I then installed the following parts:
    New Bosch 3 19lbs Injectors
    New Bosch Copper Spark Plugs
    New Timing Belt
    New Tensioner
    New Water Pump
    New Power Steering Belt
    New Alternator Belt
    New AC Belt
    New Valve Cover Gasket
    New Thermostat
    New Fuel Filter

    After all of this had been done I fired it up and it started, but the tensioner slipped and I cut it immediately. I heard it clank about 3 times though. To be sure that I didn't mess up any valves I preformed a compression test. I had to get a crappy one form a parts store and the readings were all low, ~120psi, but consistent. (I later went back with a good one and got compression of about 135 +/- 3 on all cylinders.) I corrected the timing belt, double checked the tensioner, double checked the alignment and felt safe to start it again. It started with out trouble and no unusual sounds.

    At this point I encountered an idle issue and a bit of a hesitation. I adjusted the valve timing, twice, and the hesitation cleared up. It was having problems stating when warm but I wasn't too concerned with that so I took it to get emissions done (Location: GA). I got there and told them not to turn it off because I wan't sure it would start again. It passed with flying colors (probably due to the holes in the exhaust). I then drove it around for a bit enjoying the weather. It pulled fine, transmission wasn't the smoothest but I drive a manual so I cant really compare it to anything. Got home after about 20 miles of driving and parked it.

    I took a look at the vacuum lines and found one was cracking so I replaced it and the problem persisted. I checked the vacuum lines for leaks and found none. I sprayed starter fluid over every inch of the dang thing and got no change in the idle. Tested the ICV and it was good. I took the intake boot off and out poured a good bit of fuel (Maybe 1/8 of a cup? Not too good at estimating that kind of thing). There was fuel all through the intake system so I let it air out and it stated just fine. I let it idle for a bit and checked the intake again and found more fuel. I waited a day and started it, then turned it off before it could warm up. Found fuel in the intake manifold once again and it would not start. The exhaust was cold the the touch so I assume the starting problem is not heat related.

    Since then the idle and misfire have been getting progressively worse and still would not start after it ran for a couple minutes. Eventually it stopped running smoothly and began to misfire. At first it was only when it was below 3000rpm that it was rough, but now it misfires so bad that it almost dies at idle. Mashing the gas yields almost no results. It cannot build up the RPMs.

    I tested the following and found them to be good:
    Spark at all plugs and wires
    Coil has good resistance
    ECU is good
    Compression is good (135 +/-3)
    Voltage Supply to Control units good
    Wire from starter to solenoid good
    Coolant temp sensor good
    Throttle Switch good
    Air Flow sensor good
    Oxygen sensor good
    Main grounds good

    Checked the continuity to pin 85 at the main relay and got nothing. Went through and checked all the pins in that relay plug and got nothing.

    That about sums it up. Misfires are still there, but can't really speak to the idle. A bit long winded but didn't want to leave anything out. Any help or ideas at all?


    Note: I also have a 1989 325i with an M20 and a manual transmission the runs fine. I can swap parts to check if they are good if needed.

    #2
    Pull the vacuum line off the FPR and look for fuel. It sounds like your FPR shit the bed, to me.
    Originally posted by codyep3
    I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
    2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
    1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
    1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
    2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
    2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
    2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
    2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
    2010 F650gs twin
    2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

    Comment


      #3
      The car had sat overnight was cold and not started yet. Pulled the vacuum line going from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold and it was dry. I started the car and it idled poorly. I then pulled the vacuum line off and fuel was squirting out of it.

      I don't know if that means it's good or bad. I am about to swap in one that I know works to confirm its status.

      Comment


        #4
        Bad. FPR is leaking. It was dry because it drained out. That small vacuum hose should never have fuel in it.
        Originally posted by codyep3
        I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
        2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
        1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
        1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
        2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
        2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
        2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
        2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
        2010 F650gs twin
        2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

        Comment


          #5
          Swapped in the working one and it runs now. No more misfires but it's not really that smooth while accelerating. Is that the valve timing?

          Thanks so much for the help.

          Comment


            #6
            That......could be alot of things unfortunately.

            Afm
            Coolant temp sensor
            O2 sensor
            Intake leaks

            And lots more.....
            Originally posted by codyep3
            I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
            2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
            1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
            1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
            2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
            2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
            2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
            2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
            2010 F650gs twin
            2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

            Comment


              #7
              Well looking at the things I have already tested and found good any help there?

              Comment


                #8
                I would swap the AFM if you have a good known one. Also, reset the ecu to unlearn the previously bad driving conditions
                Originally posted by codyep3
                I hope to Christ you have looks going for you, because you sure as fuck don't have any intelligence.
                2001 silver/Blk 325 cabby. SOLD
                1988 Blk/Blk e30 factory wide body kit car SOLD
                1992 DS/BLK 325 m-tech II apperance pack cabby SOLD!
                2002 325xit Sil/blk. SOLD
                2012 328i xdrive touring. Wht/blk. SOLD
                2009 135 cabby. monacoblue/blk leather SOLD
                2007 Z4m coupe. Silver grey/black/ aluminum. 1of50
                2010 F650gs twin
                2016 M235i cabby. Mineral grey/Red leather

                Comment

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