Just looking for a little guidance with my E30. I own a 1990 325is. Last weekend I decided to change the belts and smoke test the engine due to a surging problem the car has had since I bought it. Has ran fine, I have participated in a HPDE with the car and even had it dynoed before the belts. After smoke testing the engine found smoke coming from back of the valve cover gasket, replaced valve cover gasket and smoke tested the engine again to see if any more leaks were present. No leaks present. Drove the car home over the weekend to wash it. Before washing it I opened the hood to see if I saw any residue from the previous valve cover job saw none but the vacuum hose going from back of intake manifold to fuel pressure regulator was off. Drove it 9 miles without the hose connected. Connected hose and car would start and then immediately stall out. Checked hose, hose is brand new, no liquid in hose. Pulled hose off again, car will start but has a horrible idle but drives fine. Replaced fuel regulator with new one. Still same problem when vacuum hose is connected. Replaced air meter with new one, still same problem. Car starts but then immediately dies. Checked fuses and relays dont see any burn marks or broken connections. ICV is cleaned, air boot is good, no vacuum leaks. Pulled a spark plug and looks like it is burning more fuel than it should. Plugs and wires were done about 20,000 miles ago with the rebuilt head. Same setup I went to the track with and Dyno.
Right now the only temporary fix I can find is the throttle adjustment screw, gave it quarter of a turn and starts up will idle up but will fluctuate for a few seconds like I have a crazy camshaft then idles down to 1,000 rpms from 1,500. Idle still doesnt sound like it used to before all this happened.
Need a little guidance have been reading way too many threads and am on information over load. Should I just keep playing with the idle screw or be looking into something else? Ive read about a cold start valve, is that for a 325is? Sucks that all this happened after just doing belts and valve cover gasket. Didn't hit anything accidentally even checked valve adjustment and all valves were a at .025 on a cold engine with a .025 gauge between the rocker and cam lobe at its roundest point. Once car is warm it will idle at 1000rpms and when turned off it will turn on and idle back at 1000rpms. When leaving from stop lights the car will hesitate.
Im open to ideas and opinions.
Incase anyone is/ was interested the car put down 143hp and 144ft/lbs on a very conservative dyno
Car has electric fan, chip, 8mm plug wires, A/C delete, exhaust, port matched mainfolds and an open air K&N filter.
Right now the only temporary fix I can find is the throttle adjustment screw, gave it quarter of a turn and starts up will idle up but will fluctuate for a few seconds like I have a crazy camshaft then idles down to 1,000 rpms from 1,500. Idle still doesnt sound like it used to before all this happened.
Need a little guidance have been reading way too many threads and am on information over load. Should I just keep playing with the idle screw or be looking into something else? Ive read about a cold start valve, is that for a 325is? Sucks that all this happened after just doing belts and valve cover gasket. Didn't hit anything accidentally even checked valve adjustment and all valves were a at .025 on a cold engine with a .025 gauge between the rocker and cam lobe at its roundest point. Once car is warm it will idle at 1000rpms and when turned off it will turn on and idle back at 1000rpms. When leaving from stop lights the car will hesitate.
Im open to ideas and opinions.
Incase anyone is/ was interested the car put down 143hp and 144ft/lbs on a very conservative dyno
Car has electric fan, chip, 8mm plug wires, A/C delete, exhaust, port matched mainfolds and an open air K&N filter.
Comment