I havent been driving my e30 all winter due to a fender bender, but since its tax return season i decided to fix some other stuff on the car as well. Ever since i did a bunch of maintenance last june (all the seals, and gaskets, all belts replaced, new water pump and thermostat, and lots of vacuum hoses replaced) the car has been running hot. I thought maybe something was wrong with the cluster at first, but after putting in another one same issue. The car never overheats, but it runs noticeably hotter then it should be. I bought the thermostat and water pump with timing belt as a kit, so Im not exactly sure water temperature it was set for, but Im guessing it was 80 since it was kit. Any one have similar issues ever? Any solutions or advice on maybe getting the 71 or 75 degree thermostat. Ill be pulling the intake manifold to replace the I.M. gaskets so Ill be pulling the water pump off as it is. All advice appreciated.
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oh its a 325i btw. No mods other then CAI, and dinan chip as far as i know. -
does the car overheat when its moving or just at stop light? if it is overheating during red light, it is most likely the fan clutch. Also may need a little more bleeding since you just replaced your water pump.
Just this week i noticed my temp going up during red light, but as soon as the car starts moving the temp goes down. I installed a new fan clutch a month ago so i'm leaning toward a bad water pump or radiator.Comment
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replaced the water pump in june so ive been driving it like this for a while. thought it was the cluster the whole time since my fuel gauge was off and tach stopped working till i recently swapped it out and it still overheats. so not a bleeding issue. and it will start to to get pretty hot from normal driving. clutch fan was replaced.Comment
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It might be your radiator, since all of the other cooling parts are new. By the way, sometimes new parts can be defected also.Comment
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True. I'll Just get a 75 degree one since I'll be swapping it in November ishComment
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get yourself an infrared temp gun and verify the temp before you throw a bunch of money at the car. temp gauges are definitely not 100% accurate
1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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Okay. I should have thought if that. ThanjsComment
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I've been having the same issue. My car when I first bought it ran at 1/4 solid even at a stop, water pump went out, flushed the cooling system entirely (a shit ton of calcium and sand came out of the radiator and black goodness came out from the block/heater core) but now with flushed/bled cooling system cleaned radiator it runs about 3/8's on the gauge while driving on city streets then goes up to half on the freeway and stays at 1/2 at a traffic light. But when I downshift and use engine braking to get off the freeway the temp goes down to 1/4. I have no clue whats going on with it, but thinking about replacing my thermostat with a new thermostat housing, and I have a 16" electric fan ready to install. Any other things I should be looking for? and is 1/2 an optimal temp to be running an M20?
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Well I started the car for a first time and notices that right when I started the car the scale jumped to 1/4. So it off by 1/4 then I'm going to get a infra red thermometer and check it just to be safe. But I'll replace the whole cluster again since my tech is out. Hopefully I don't have to pull the whole coolin system ohtComment
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