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CEL on, Bouncy Tach, HELP!

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    CEL on, Bouncy Tach, HELP!

    I consider myself pretty knowledgable with the M20 so this has me stumped.

    Car has been driving well for the last couple of weeks, first problem i've ever had with it that i've been stumped on.

    Long story short, I drove the car to work this morning just fine. No issues whatsoever. The tach wasn't reading right and either bouncing around 2500-4000 RPM and 0 when idling. Did a whole days work, came to pull the car out of the lot and the CEL was on the it was having trouble even holding an idle. It would surge, almost die, than surge again, until it eventually fell on it's face and died.

    Stomp Code reveals a lot of different faults related to Grounds, and Fuel System but still not enough for me to pinpoint what's going on.

    I have all weekend to delve into it and see if I can get it running right. Once the CEL turns off the car runs great. This has got me wanting to just ditch the E30 this weekend and get the 2002 project done to drive to and from work next week. Hoping to get some good insight on this one.

    Thanks for your time guys,
    Paolo
    clutchCTRL!
    Move with a purpose.
    - 1991 325iX 4dr/5spd
    - 1976 2002 SlickTop/2.7i M20/G260
    - 2000 323i AT
    2016 Mazda CX3 Sport AWD

    #2
    My first suspicion would be a bad CPS, bad engine harness, or a flaky DME.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment


      #3
      After a stomp test I got code 1263 which refers to the EVAP Valve. Anyone have any insight? Have a good chunk of the day to work on it tomorrow and would love ideas.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      clutchCTRL!
      Move with a purpose.
      - 1991 325iX 4dr/5spd
      - 1976 2002 SlickTop/2.7i M20/G260
      - 2000 323i AT
      2016 Mazda CX3 Sport AWD

      Comment


        #4
        I swapped in a known good 173 ecu, the one that came out of the car was a 524 for what it's worth.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        clutchCTRL!
        Move with a purpose.
        - 1991 325iX 4dr/5spd
        - 1976 2002 SlickTop/2.7i M20/G260
        - 2000 323i AT
        2016 Mazda CX3 Sport AWD

        Comment


          #5
          Jim already pointed you in the correct direction.

          As he said, harness, cps, or dme

          Do a search for testing cps, simple check Is to check if it ohms out correctly. 540 ohms or so iirc. Won't always tell you if it's working but it's a good base line. Replace it with a dealer one, only.

          Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
          -Build http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=295277

          Comment


            #6
            Just an update for you guys.

            First thing I did this morning was check the main relays (the three that sit under the plastic cover), I keep spares (brand new ones) in my garage. Although the Main Relay had been replaced most recently it was the culprit. I swapped it and everything cleared right up. Car started right up, etc. etc. Been driving it all morning. Thoughts?
            clutchCTRL!
            Move with a purpose.
            - 1991 325iX 4dr/5spd
            - 1976 2002 SlickTop/2.7i M20/G260
            - 2000 323i AT
            2016 Mazda CX3 Sport AWD

            Comment

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