The only time I ever had a car do what you describe as "slowly died" is when an alternator went bad and the battery eventually drained such that it could not power the electrics anymore. It is a very bizarre fading out--the dash lights all go dim, headlights dim out, and then the engine just can't run anymore.
This didn't happen to me in a BMW, btw, but it's kind of universal.
89 E30 No Start, Tried everything! [UPDATE]
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Yeah it's getting ridiculous now. No idea what's wrong haha.
Oh and I also bypassed the obc relay like I was told to.
If there's any other tests you'd like me to do please let me know! I just need an explanation on how to test it as I'm still new to using a multimeter.Leave a comment:
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Subbed, Im going through this same problem right now. I got on the highway one morning and the car just slowly died out and hasn't ran since. Waiting on new relays and a CPS from BavAuto.Leave a comment:
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It still doesn't start. I've run a few tests so here is some additional information for you guys:
I replaced the fusable link in the back with a new 50A fuse.
I used a voltmeter and found that
- I had the power wires that go to the main relay hooked up to a ground before. Hooked them up to power now.
- both terminal 30 and 86 on the main relay have battery voltage
- On the fuel pump relay terminal 30 has battery voltage.
- hooking up the meter in pins 85 and 86 and operating starter shows no results
- if I use a wire and jump the relay on 30 and 87 the pump would operate even with the key off. Next morning I try again and I can't get it to work.
Thanks for looking into this guys - I'm stumped.Leave a comment:
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Get the e30 electrical troubleshooting manual, it will be extremely helpful.
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I tried bypassing that relay for the obc code module by connecting the green and green/red wires together on both ends.. No result. Then I cut out the fuseable link and went looking for a fuse but stores were closed. So I replaced the fuseable link with wire and still nothing. Car just cranks but no signal to fuel or spark.
Any other suggestions? Guess it's time to pullout the multimeter and learn how to use it then trace power from the battery all the way down the line.Leave a comment:
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I threw out my back at work so been out of commission the last 2 days.
Thanks for all the advice guys, truly appreciate it. I will try the suggestions tomorrow and post back here with results.Leave a comment:
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The OBC will otherwise work fine, except for the code function. The only way to find out is to try the bypass. Remove connector from black relay by hood release, then cut and splice green and green+red wires. The code function interrupts the signal between the ignition switch and the ecu through the relay, and mimics a no-spark situation. It means the relay is staying open no matter what you do. It can wonk out while driving too, causing the engine to shut off and be un-startable for an indefinite period. Let me know if it works.Last edited by NoM54me; 06-23-2014, 12:08 PM.Leave a comment:
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i bet its the connector under the dash, i had a similar issue. it doesnt just plug into an end it goes in a block that has many plugs in itLeave a comment:
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I've been helping out Anson (op) in trying to diag. this.
everything is as it should, gone over pretty much everything with a fine toothed comb.
fusible link looks tight and clean. solder joints are fine.
we've tried different ECU's also, nothing.
if the OBC still seems to be functioning fine when the car is in ACC position, is it still a possibility there would be no spark no fuel?Leave a comment:
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Fusible link. Trust me give this a try. I replaced everything on my m20 in relation to fuel and spark to findout it was just the fusible link connected to the battery in the trunk. The fuse's solder was broken, hope this helpsLeave a comment:
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+1 for bypassing the code function on the OBC. Worked for me. Easy and free repair.Leave a comment:

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