1987 BMW 325 (My very first e30?)

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  • Panda_kRz
    Noobie
    • Nov 2014
    • 5

    #1

    1987 BMW 325 (My very first e30?)

    Co-worker is selling his 1987 BMW 325(e) with 105k miles, 5-speed. When I test drove it, it felt was awfully slow. And this is coming from driving a "slow" e46 (325i) and "slower" e36 (318i). Yes, I know it's the "economical" engine and whatnot. But looking into it there was hope yet. That I could take on the task of doing mods/swaps that would 'liven' up the car a bit. The mods/swaps that I wanted to do was: differential swap, "i" cams, "i" valve springs, "i" ecu, "i" intake/exhaust manifold, "i" throttle body, "i" exhaust (maybe), "i" tachometer, and chipping the "i" ecu.

    Which leads me to the following questions:

    1. Can I do all these without having to drill/cut/retro-fit anything? If so please state what must be done and for what part.
    2. Is there anything else that must be done/swapped in order to complete this task? (Wires, harnesses, sensors, pulleys, etc.)

    Sorry if this has been asked, I searched and couldn't find a direct answer or "DIY" w/ every parts listed, etc., so just compiled everything here. And if I did miss a DIY please provide the link in the comments. Thanks in advance!
  • Reichart12
    R3VLimited
    • Aug 2012
    • 2148

    #2

    Instagram: Reichart12

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    • Bullhead
      E30 Addict
      • Sep 2014
      • 532

      #3
      Originally posted by Reichart12
      I spit my drink out here, dang you broke him in quick! lol, read up on the swap, and just keep asking questions Panda just wear frame proof unidies!
      sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

      Comment

      • Panda_kRz
        Noobie
        • Nov 2014
        • 5

        #4
        Lol, I don't mind the criticism and/or flames. I expect them, actually. But I did read it and now re-reading it just to make sure I haven't missed anything.

        Comment

        • Bullhead
          E30 Addict
          • Sep 2014
          • 532

          #5
          Originally posted by Panda_kRz
          Lol, I don't mind the criticism and/or flames. I expect them, actually. But I did read it and now re-reading it just to make sure I haven't missed anything.
          You have to swap the harness to take advantage of the full performance gains. It's best to get the hole I top end head included. If you keep the E head you have to drill 3 of the pedestals that are not drilled for oil journals because the E cam only has 4 journals where the I has 7. The I cpu will not hook up to the E 1.0 Motronic either. Someone will chime in who has already mastered this swap and help you more. I am also getting geared up to do this swap.
          sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger

          Comment

          • Panda_kRz
            Noobie
            • Nov 2014
            • 5

            #6
            Okay thanks, that's what I figured (or at least from re-reading the other thread). But the 'i' head is pretty much bolt on right? No modifications needs to be done?

            Comment

            • 4x4_e30
              Advanced Member
              • Sep 2013
              • 164

              #7
              Shave the head for 9:1 compression ratio, then make sure pin 20 on the c101 connector is not grounded. Other than that the swap is "bolt on".

              Comment

              • Panda_kRz
                Noobie
                • Nov 2014
                • 5

                #8
                Originally posted by 4x4_e30
                Shave the head for 9:1 compression ratio, then make sure pin 20 on the c101 connector is not grounded. Other than that the swap is "bolt on".
                By "pin 20" you mean after the 1.0 to 1.3 Motronic swap, correct? Sorry just verifying. :X

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