1987 325i Crank No Start/No Spark

[Rally_E30]

Hello all,

I am the new owner of a 1987 BMW 325i (Build Month 01/87), with the intent of turning it into a rally car for Stage Rally.

My current issue is that I recently have repaired many things on the car, but now it will not start, this is the order things have happened:

Purchased car
Had Rough Idle
-Ran Top Engine Cleaner, ran much better
Adjusted Valve Lash
Replaced the following
-Timing belt
-Water Pump
-Tensioner
-Distributor Cap and Rotor
-Spark Plugs (They are Platinum, but I now know Copper is a better choice correct?)
-Oil Change

So before and after all of this, the car started and ran fine for several startups. Then one day I go to start it and nothing happens. now it should be noted, that when it was running, it was only for a few minutes, but had no coolant, and no air filter attached in front of the AFM. Also, every time I ran it, I disconnected the battery after running it to make sure the battery did not die. From what I have read, the DME is fairly easy to blow. The Injectors are firing (I think, it smells of fuel when I remove spark plug). However, grounding a spark plug, there is no visible spark.

My Question specifically:
How can I prove out the DME as being good/bad. In-line fuse in trunk near battery is OK. Also, if the DME is bad, I have read the 173 is better? (do not know how to differentiate between DMEs)

P.S. new to old BMW's so please try to explain various Acronyms, I have been a Mechanic for 6 years, but I am new to old BMW's. Before this I had a 1967 Ford Mustang.

[e30^2]

I have the same problem right now. I have an 84 325e that won't startup.
I replaced the accessory belts, Timing Belt, Water pump and tension pulley. The car started right up but, the new water pump was leaking so, I took off the water pump threw away the gasket and beaded on some hi temp silicone sealer. Put the water pump back on, tightened everything back up. Try to start the car and it won't start. I can smell the gas but, no spark. There's gas coming out of the intake boot.
The only thing I touched that was ignition related was the distributor cap and rotor.
Nothing else was touched so I can't understand why it won't start. it started up several times perfectly like in your case.

I am going through the exact same thing as you. I'm hoping someone can help us. It's cold here in NY now and I just want the car in working order before the first snowfall.

I checked other forums and no solution yet.

[Swanny]

1987 325i Crank No Start/No Spark

First try to jump the fuel pump and see what that nets.

Copper is certainly better than the platinum plugs.

Are you getting anything at the ignition coil?

After that test out the crank position sensor (cps). Its plug is located right next to the idle control valve (icv) and the actual sensor is on the exhaust side of the engine, behind the ac compressor, and connected to the block via a bracket and 2 allen bolts.

Here is the factory wiring diagram as well to help hunt things down

http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/

[e30^2]

How does one test the ignition coil? I checked my CPS and reseated it. Still no go.
I'm assuming the CPS connector is mounted on the Valve cover next to the ICV? If so, the connector is fine. It's strange how all of a sudden it won't start. The engine spins because I can see the fan turning but, I don't hear the engine trying to turn over. All I hear is the engine spinning. Here's a link to hear my engine spinning while I'm trying to start it.

http://yourlisten.com/drewusmaximus/e30-car-start

[Rally_E30]

I tested the Ignition Coil and it tested as follows:
Voltage Drop across the two terminals was 0v during KOEO and 0v during cranking.
Available Voltage was 12v at the Positive Terminal during KOEO and dropped to between 9v-10v during cranking.
The Negative Terminal measured .5k ohms of resistance between the terminal and a body ground.

As for those results, it seems to be getting the proper signal, does this indicate a bad coil?

The CPS tested .5k ohms between the first and second pin, and the others had no continuity between them which seems like a normal reading to me.

[e30^2]

I tested the Ignition Coil and it tested as follows:
Voltage Drop across the two terminals was 0v during KOEO and 0v during cranking.
Available Voltage was 12v at the Positive Terminal during KOEO and dropped to between 9v-10v during cranking.
The Negative Terminal measured .5k ohms of resistance between the terminal and a body ground.

As for those results, it seems to be getting the proper signal, does this indicate a bad coil?

The CPS tested .5k ohms between the first and second pin, and the others had no continuity between them which seems like a normal reading to me.

How did you turn out?

[Rally_E30]

Ended up being the coil, swapped with a used one from the junkyard, started right up. Also swapped the DEM from a '87 325is, not sure if different, but it was only $25