Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Please Help, e30 is stalling, what to do?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Please Help, e30 is stalling, what to do?

    Make & Model: 1987 BMW 325is - Automatic Transmission (e30)

    Problems:

    -Stalling at low rpms before I let the engine heat up (usually 5-10 minutes of revving needed to not stall)

    Only stalls when rpms are low, for example stop signs and traffic signals are the hardest for me when it’s not fully heated up. Above 15-20 mph no matter if the car is warm or cold it runs great, freeway driving is my favorite because I’m not worried about a stall.

    If I am slowing down for a turn at a green light and rolling semi slow then give it gas it just gives me nothing then will stall immediately. (It doesn’t stall in neutral without a load on the engine).
    -Starting when it’s cold outside
    If I let it sit for 24 hours without starting it or driving it and attempt to start it in the morning when it’s cold, it has a hard time. If I start it late the night before just to warm it up then wake up early when it’s cold it will start first try.


    Things I’ve tried:

    -To fight this I usually am using two feet, revving with one and braking with the other. Sometimes I drop it in Neutral at a stop light, rev it up and put it in drive. (Works most of time as long as it’s warm or almost warm enough)

    -New Idle Control Valve (also sprayed brake cleaner in both of the ones I have).

    -New spark plugs and spark plug wire harness.

    -Valve adjustment.

    -New throttle body (actually have tried 3 and cleaned each). This made my car go from running/sounding good to great (still as long as it’s above the speed/rev or warmed up).

    -Seafoam here and there. I always run 91 Octane gas.

    -The first two mechanics said ICV/throttle body, my friend who did my valve adjustment thinks O2 sensor.

    -I was charged for a replacement thermostat and distributor cap at my last mechanic (guessing they weren’t new).


    Miscellaneous:

    -Some minor electrical problems: Right blinker is out even after checking/replacing bulbs. Windshield wipers in the past were 50/50 chance of working until banging on the dash hard enough, now they work every time!

    What do you think? It runs so good once it’s warm, I know it’s close to being back to normal and running stronger than ever.

    02 sensors run $120+ from what I’m seeing: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-29...25i-325is.aspx

    thanks.

    #2
    If it's only when it runs cold - check your temperature sensor....this may be not sensing the temperature properly and not giving it enough fuel on cold and cold start. The only other thing I could think of is the TPS sensor is out or not adjusted properly....but you may have a combination of issues.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gte175x View Post
      If it's only when it runs cold - check your temperature sensor....this may be not sensing the temperature properly and not giving it enough fuel on cold and cold start. The only other thing I could think of is the TPS sensor is out or not adjusted properly....but you may have a combination of issues.
      Not sure how I would check the temperature sensor, upon a quick web search it seems like they are cheap (under $10). Should I just buy a new one?

      Thanks!

      Comment


        #4
        It's basically a thermistor - a resistor that changes resistance based on temperature. You test it by reading resistance with an ohm meter, at cold and at temp...it should read specific ohm values (I forget what they are, but if you search you can find it on here somewhere)...

        Comment


          #5
          What is it idling at? Is the idle steady?
          Eternally searching for a nice set of BMW Sheepskin Seat Covers for Comfort Seats.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by sacroyalty View Post
            -New Idle Control Valve (also sprayed brake cleaner in both of the ones I have).

            -New spark plugs and spark plug wire harness.

            -Valve adjustment.

            -New throttle body (actually have tried 3 and cleaned each). This made my car go from running/sounding good to great (still as long as it’s above the speed/rev or warmed up).
            You say 'new' on these parts, but you're also saying that you're cleaning them. Do you mean 'new to you' from a junk yard? running car?

            I would use electrical cleaner for the idle control valve, not brake cleaner. Brake cleaner can be damaging to plastic.

            Originally posted by sacroyalty View Post
            I always run 91 Octane gas.
            This is a waste of money, stop doing this.

            Originally posted by sacroyalty View Post
            -The first two mechanics said ICV/throttle body, my friend who did my valve adjustment thinks O2 sensor.
            Doubt it's O2 sensor. I had the same issue on my 87 eta 5 speed. I replaced the sensor because I was in there and I had no change.

            I would think it's an idle control valve, I would try one from a running car.(without trying to clean it with brake cleaner or whatever)

            I would also have a vacuum test done, you could have a vacuum leak that is presenting at low engine speed.

            Like others have stated a new temp sensor is a good idea too. At only $10 it's worth just putting in a new one, and they aren't hard to change.

            Lastly, next time this post should go into sub forum for general technical.

            Comment


              #7
              I just had this issue, for me it was the vacuum tube to the carbonator, hope this helps/

              Comment


                #8
                I hate it when my M20 isn't fizzy enough.
                Originally posted by kronus
                would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

                Comment

                Working...
                X