Replacing trans output seal, which clutch should I buy (future turbo car)?

[Helltime]

Ok, so long story short i was driving my car hard last year, I noticed the clutch was slipping under "launch" type conditions. I have to pull everything to replace the transmission output seal anyways, I figure it would also be a good time to replace the clutch. Now I plan to go turbo in the next 2 years (and I drive that car around 4-5k miles a year tops, it is not my main car, next even my secondary car, but I do enjoy it in the summer months). So I have a couple questions
1) Which clutch/fw will hold but not be a complete nightmare of a leg work out? I am wanting some drive-ability out of it, I don't want to deal with a chattering clutch. Power goals in the end, 300-350whp (just so it can hang with my 135i).
2) Should I replace the seal on the transmission first then pull it to do the clutch or pull the trans out then pull the rear output seal? If I do it that way how will I keep it from spinning to break that nut loose?

[Tom.]

I can't answer your clutch question, but I would definitely try to do the output shaft seal while the trans is out. I still have nightmares about changing that seal.. (took me 3 seals at $30 per seal). Buy the seal from the dealer, do not use an Elring seal, KACO is the OE brand seal. Also make sure you do the shift shaft seal as well.
You could break the nut loose while the trans is still connected (heat helps to break it loose)

[36brua]

the rear seal fits very tight in the case. lube it and go slowly/gently but firmly (!) because it will want to cock and not go in square. You will call it a cock su... many times and worse. as mentioned use OE and be ready to buy a second one. heat the nut to release
any thread sealant.

[Helltime]

Hmm, I am not liking the comments so far, very discouraging. Why is it such a pain?

[36brua]

Hmm, I am not liking the comments so far, very discouraging. Why is it such a pain?

no it is very doable. I just did one yesterday trans in the car, on jack stands and I'm an old guy.
heat the nut/remove, pull the yoke you can use a balancer/dampner puller or ? for this,remove seal, be careful not to hook the inside of the case behind the seal, you can gouge the contact surface. It is a tight fit for the new seal and takes a bit heavier hammer good solid contact to get it eased in use a seal driver or socket etc that fits the od of the seal.. just be careful because it will want to cock as I mentioned before and will conveniently wedge itself in crooked, fu..

[Tom.]

I just can't help but drive those seals in crooked. It's so irritating. I can manage everything else, but those style seals humiliated me way more than I care to admit.

[Helltime]

no it is very doable. I just did one yesterday trans in the car, on jack stands and I'm an old guy.
heat the nut/remove, pull the yoke you can use a balancer/dampner puller or ? for this,remove seal, be careful not to hook the inside of the case behind the seal, you can gouge the contact surface. It is a tight fit for the new seal and takes a bit heavier hammer good solid contact to get it eased in use a seal driver or socket etc that fits the od of the seal.. just be careful because it will want to cock as I mentioned before and will conveniently wedge itself in crooked, fu..

That doesn't sound too bad. I will also be doing this on jackstands unless I decide to pull the trans to replace the clutch (I haven't figured out which clutch I want yet, so I might push that off). For some reason I am actually looking forward to this, its been a while since I have had enough free time to wrench on one of the toys.