My 88 325ix (with 87ix engine) has been running like absolute shit since I hit a deer with it... I have tried many different things to fix the car but I can not figure it out. I have attached a youtube video so you can see for yourself. This is how it runs with everything plugged in as it should be. If I remove the MAF plug it will run a little better, but still falls on its face during acceleration. I have been all over the internet/bently searching for the solution for this problem for over a year now, and I am ready to give up on this car.
Collision:
Driving about 55 mph and deer jumps right in front of me, small deer, pushes in radiator etc and tweaks and breaks engine fan pretty bad. Drivers side of car is pushed in much further than passengers, and the hood is pushed down slightly on the front drivers side above the AFM. the 3 relays are dislodged and AFM wires pinched, but do not appear damaged and neither does their wiring. all headlight stuff damaged badly (have pulled fuses for all accessories for electrical troubleshooting). Car overheats slightly before I can shut it off (fan belt probably not spinning at this point, meaning water pump too
). Key is broken in ignition from frustration at this point.
First thought: Poor ignition.....
have tried: New: plugs, rotor, dizzy cap, crank sensor, timing belt, water pump, head gasket, alternator. (all since accident) (did not replace tensioner/spring, seems fine.)
-a spare used set of wires, and 2 known working coils
harmonic balancer inspected for damage. no chipped teeth. Water pump was bent and pushed on pretty good, pulley was originally scraping the very edge of the balancer lightly, but it doesn't seem worn down at all really.
still seems like a timing issue to me, like the computer it messing it all up somehow.
When using a spark tester that looks like a spark plug i am getting inconsistant or absent spark at RPM. Coil sparks hard on it's end but that's with the engine "starting", not running. Sometimes with all other 5 plugs plugged in the plug i'm testing will crack fast and hard for a couple seconds then just drop entirely.
Second thought: Fuel.....
have tried:
new FPR, running pressure 2.5bar (full throttle running) 3.0bar (idle). pressure does not drop over time with car off.
New 02 sensor/exhaust swap
cleaned injectors, tried spare injectors. new coolant sensor,
tried multiple known working MAF
Third thought: Intake leak....
smoke tested at a shop. have also looked tirelessly with other methods. No intake leaks.
Fourth thought: Electrical BS
have done ECU pinout tests according to Bentley and all are within spec.
have swapped known good ECU... have tested for continuity from computer side harness to all sensor side harnesses, have also load tested circuits which supply power. fusible link is OK. have cleaned all connections to all sensors and plugs and whatnot...
stomp test is the 02 sensor heating element code, no other codes present.
Fifth Though: Compression (dry, wet)
1 160 --> 175
2 140 --> 195
3 130 --> 185
4 135 --> 185
5 150 --> 200
6 140 --> 205
should note that numbers were obtained with about half a shot glass of oil wet, and about 10s or five revolutions. I can build pressure very high if I keep cranking (heard many ways to do compression tests)
concern: numbers are low... but the car didn't overheat that badly for any real period of time (i saw temp gauge shooting up fast after accident and shut car down.) My father says that my rings wouldn't be causing the problems I'm having.. usually I trust his opinion on things mechanical but what do you guys think? Burnt rings? plugs are ALL carbon fouled, and a fresh set of plugs will ALL be carbon fouled within minutes of being in the engine. I clean the plugs before every new test of the engine. The engine produces a gray fuel smelling smoke that will sting your eyes.
any and all help appreciated. Because you cant ask something for nothing, if one of you can tell me exactly what is wrong with my car I will ship you any one part you need off a m20. have tons of spare stuff. will figure that out when the time comes... thank you guys for your time..
also can anyone tell me what the other wires go to that are routed with the crank sensor wire, appears to be an oil level sensor? I have concerns this wire is damaged, any way to bypass it? That wouldn't cause this... would it? Scraping on the balancer and shorting or something IDK..?
Collision:
Driving about 55 mph and deer jumps right in front of me, small deer, pushes in radiator etc and tweaks and breaks engine fan pretty bad. Drivers side of car is pushed in much further than passengers, and the hood is pushed down slightly on the front drivers side above the AFM. the 3 relays are dislodged and AFM wires pinched, but do not appear damaged and neither does their wiring. all headlight stuff damaged badly (have pulled fuses for all accessories for electrical troubleshooting). Car overheats slightly before I can shut it off (fan belt probably not spinning at this point, meaning water pump too
). Key is broken in ignition from frustration at this point.First thought: Poor ignition.....
have tried: New: plugs, rotor, dizzy cap, crank sensor, timing belt, water pump, head gasket, alternator. (all since accident) (did not replace tensioner/spring, seems fine.)
-a spare used set of wires, and 2 known working coils
harmonic balancer inspected for damage. no chipped teeth. Water pump was bent and pushed on pretty good, pulley was originally scraping the very edge of the balancer lightly, but it doesn't seem worn down at all really.
still seems like a timing issue to me, like the computer it messing it all up somehow.
When using a spark tester that looks like a spark plug i am getting inconsistant or absent spark at RPM. Coil sparks hard on it's end but that's with the engine "starting", not running. Sometimes with all other 5 plugs plugged in the plug i'm testing will crack fast and hard for a couple seconds then just drop entirely.
Second thought: Fuel.....
have tried:
new FPR, running pressure 2.5bar (full throttle running) 3.0bar (idle). pressure does not drop over time with car off.
New 02 sensor/exhaust swap
cleaned injectors, tried spare injectors. new coolant sensor,
tried multiple known working MAF
Third thought: Intake leak....
smoke tested at a shop. have also looked tirelessly with other methods. No intake leaks.
Fourth thought: Electrical BS
have done ECU pinout tests according to Bentley and all are within spec.
have swapped known good ECU... have tested for continuity from computer side harness to all sensor side harnesses, have also load tested circuits which supply power. fusible link is OK. have cleaned all connections to all sensors and plugs and whatnot...
stomp test is the 02 sensor heating element code, no other codes present.
Fifth Though: Compression (dry, wet)
1 160 --> 175
2 140 --> 195
3 130 --> 185
4 135 --> 185
5 150 --> 200
6 140 --> 205
should note that numbers were obtained with about half a shot glass of oil wet, and about 10s or five revolutions. I can build pressure very high if I keep cranking (heard many ways to do compression tests)
concern: numbers are low... but the car didn't overheat that badly for any real period of time (i saw temp gauge shooting up fast after accident and shut car down.) My father says that my rings wouldn't be causing the problems I'm having.. usually I trust his opinion on things mechanical but what do you guys think? Burnt rings? plugs are ALL carbon fouled, and a fresh set of plugs will ALL be carbon fouled within minutes of being in the engine. I clean the plugs before every new test of the engine. The engine produces a gray fuel smelling smoke that will sting your eyes.
any and all help appreciated. Because you cant ask something for nothing, if one of you can tell me exactly what is wrong with my car I will ship you any one part you need off a m20. have tons of spare stuff. will figure that out when the time comes... thank you guys for your time..
also can anyone tell me what the other wires go to that are routed with the crank sensor wire, appears to be an oil level sensor? I have concerns this wire is damaged, any way to bypass it? That wouldn't cause this... would it? Scraping on the balancer and shorting or something IDK..?
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