Timing issues! Please help me

[Snoopy_Dro]

I just got done rebuilding my head after i warped it when I toasted my head gasket and I've done all the work so far myself. I was rather proud till two days ago when I got it all put back together and it fired up but doesn't hardly want to idle and definitely is not going anywhere. Every time i push the gas it wants to die and even without me pushing the gas it wants to die. My first thought was my o2 sensor wasn't reading right because of improper air/fuel readings and no back pressure on my strait pipes plus the sensor was only 6 inches away from the end of the pipe. Then I reinstalled they stock exhaust and still had the same problem. I was wondering if you can have the timing 180° out of tune on the crank since it takes two crank spins to every one cam rotation. And if that is the case them how can you tell when you have true tdc on cylinder #1 I've read the pelican parts article and many others and can't seem to see what I didn't wrong? Its been two months since me and my girl got to cut up the roads where I live and I just wanna drive her again. Any thoughts on my situation? Btw its a stock m20b27 with a jc chip

[FireFight]

as long as you lined everything up you shouldn't have an issue with timing. once you set the tension i always hand crank the front a couple rotations to make sure that everything thing still lines up.

there is also two sensors plugs near your valve cover that look identical, those could have been switch or one could not be faulty.
i had a very similar problem with a e28 and it ended up being that the sensor wasn't telling the ECU how fast the motor was turning and when i gave it throttle, more air was taken in but not enough fuel and it would die.

engine speed reference sensors.
they both serve different functions but share the same part number
0 261 210 001 (bosch part number)

you can test resistance be twin the pins on the sensor side, it should be (+/-) 13ohms steady (if i recall)

[Snoopy_Dro]

I set the timing and hand cranked it over three different times just to make sure there was no interference of valves and that the marks lined up. All three times the cam mark lined up with the crank o/t mark after a 720° rotation.



Are you talking about the brown plugs on the thermostat by the valve cover? What plugs are you talking about by the valve cover? Can you snap a picture by chance.



Ill test the resistance and get back to you soon as I find out what sensors your speaking of.

[Snoopy_Dro]

Dude just went out and swapped the two plugs you where talkin about and boom she idles like a champ now to find out where this obnoxious squeak knock

[FireFight]

the sensors plug in the harness near the firewall usually on the valve cover.

you can trace them back from the bell housing. they are both bolt in down near the bottom of the car. ill snap a pic of the two m20s i have at house.

some late m20b27s have them under the intake and on a bracket bolted to the block now that i think about it so it matters what year the block for where the sensors plug in but either way it will be traceable from the bell housing

[FireFight]

cool. im glad that was it!

[Snoopy_Dro]

Lol the squeak was just my crank position sensor was too close to the dampener

[Snoopy_Dro]

Dude firefight your my hero bro!

[FireFight]

:up: